‘Les’ is More at Murph’s Kitchen in Millvale

PHOTO COURTESY OF MURPH’S KITCHEN

North Versailles native Les Murphy grew up in a large family brought together by food.

Now the veteran chef is attracting hungry crowds in Millvale with the tagline “Good Times Served Daily.”

In July, Murph’s Kitchen moved into Strange Roots Experimental Ales’ taproom on E. Ohio Street. The brewery’s longtime food purveyor, Pittsburgh Sandwich Society, opened Winston’s Grilled Eats & Frozen Treats a few blocks away.

Murphy’s been a fixture on the local restaurant scene for 36 years, the last dozen of them spent at Bigham Tavern in Mount Washington, where he cranked out some of the city’s most popular pub grub.

“My experience at Bigham was probably the fastest I have seen a place grow that I was a part of,” he says. “I feel like anyone with a fire in their belly, like myself, is always looking to grow.”

Well, the heat is on at Strange Roots.

Murphy and his business partner, Sarah Flora, offer seasonal, upscale bar food, including sandwiches, salads, soups, mac-and-cheese bowls, flatbreads and vegetarian and gluten-free options.

This is comfort food with a kick.

“I like to cook,” he says. “Some recipes are more challenging than others, but the process is where I live.”

I’m proud to say I was the first Murph’s Kitchen customer and went with The Big Chic, an aptly named sandwich with a 6-ounce grilled or fried chicken breast, white American cheese, spicy BBQ aioli, fried jalapeños, lettuce and tomato on a toasted burger bun. I added bacon to mine, because oink.

And, of course, there are wings.

PHOTO COURTESY OF MURPH’S KITCHEN

Thursday Wing Night has long been a Strange Roots staple, so owners Dennis and Jaclyn Hock were happy to partner with an expert.

“Nothing wowed me like his wings,” Jaclyn says. “He has so many recipes in mind. His art is on a plate; my husband’s art is in a glass.”

Strange Roots, which started as Draai Laag Brewing Co. in 2011, uses varying fermentation methods and local micro flora to create unique beverages that have developed a cult following. Murphy says he has plans to incorporate some experimental ales into his recipes.

The brewery has a second location in New Kensington that’s anchored by the stellar Common Oven Pizza Co., which bakes pies in a wood-fired oven using naturally leavened dough, handmade mozzarella and fresh toppings. They also have dangerously delicious chocolate chip cookies. Double oink!

Both Strange Roots sites are family- and dog-friendly with indoor and outdoor seating.

“We are hoping to establish a footprint in Millvale,” Murphy says. “We would like for this to become an even more sought-after spot, as it already has great support from Strange Roots alone. We couldn’t be happier here.”