PHOTOS BY KRISTY GRAVER

Last fall, Josh Sickels went on a pizza pilgrimage.

The Irwin native visited 23 time-honored (and trending) eateries across Philadelphia, New Jersey, New York City and New Haven, Conn., devouring up to six pies a day.

That’s a lot of slices, even for a diehard fan — who happens to run one of the hottest pizza shops in Pittsburgh.

“That area of the world has such a long, prestigious pizza culture,” says Sickels, who is relocating Rockaway Pizzeria from White Oak to Regent Square. “I need to come down here as experienced and educated as possible. I get fanatical. Good isn’t good enough for me.”

Folks have been raving about his New York-style pies since he opened the business in 2017.

The new spot is expected to open this spring across from Hemlock House, Sickels’ other restaurant on South Braddock Avenue.

He now has two double-decker ovens to work with. The menu will feature a few sandwiches and salads, but, as far as Sickels is concerned, it’s all about the pizza; there are more than 20 pies in his repertoire and he’s experimenting with different ingredients, from flour to tomatoes.

The former Square One space got a makeover that includes artwork inspired by the TV series “Twin Peaks” (also an inspiration for the style at Hemlock House). Photos of Sickels’ favorite bands, most notably the Ramones, adorn the walls; their music blares from the speakers.

I’ve never met anyone more passionate about pizza, punk and Peaks!

For many years, Sickels was a touring drummer stationed in the Big Apple. When he wasn’t playing music, he was exploring NYC’s unrivaled pizza culture. Di Fara Pizza, a Brooklyn staple since 1965, is where he got a taste of his future. He credits late owner Domenico De Marco for revolutionizing the street slice and inspiring him to open a local place that elevated pizza to an art form.

Sickels respects the legendary pizza makers who came before him, but he still marches to his own beat. Thanks to his gastronomic journey up and down the East Coast, his brain is filled with ideas, both for Rockaway and his band Animal Scream.

It would take an animal scream to drown out the sound of my growling stomach as Sickles reminisces about some of his all-time favorite slices. There were moments on his trip when he’d take a bite of pizza that tasted so good it caused his arms to flail, his head to shake and a string of expletives to fly out of his mouth as he chewed.

PHOTO BY LAURA PETRILLA

That’s the reaction he wants to see from his patrons. I’m pretty sure I did all that and levitated the first time I ate a damn fine Rockaway pie.

“I’ve done such extensive homework on how to elevate my pizza in a way that it’s something original to the region,” Sickels says. “I’m just trying to make the best pizza in the world.”

Regent Square, 1137 S. Braddock Ave.

F&F Pizzeria

Let’s be frank: Pittsburghers don’t take kindly to outsiders invading our proud pizza scene.

The owners of Brooklyn-based F&F Pizzeria, a hit since its 2019 debut, hope we’ll make an exception.

Chefs Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo, known as “The Franks,” are bringing their concept to the former Bado’s Pizza Grille & Ale House (which is still alive in food truck form) in Mt. Lebanon. It’s expected to open in May, with two more locations in the works for 2025.

“The best way to describe the pizza is a cross between a Neopolitan and a traditional New York slice,” says Anthony Simasek, who, along with Robert Mullin, has partnered with The Franks on their expansion to the Steel City.

Everyone on the team has personal ties to Pittsburgh.

The crew is renovating the century-old Beverly Road building, which housed Bado’s for four decades. During demolition, they uncovered a white tile floor; they’re also opening up the facade to let in more natural light.

The upstairs dining room will eventually serve double-duty as a private event space and there is a patio in the rear. There will be a full bar with a curated wine program and an exposed kitchen. The three-decker pizza oven will crank out pies made from naturally fermented dough and the menu will also include appetizers, salads and entrees.

Takeout and delivery will be available, but F&F will be more of a sit-down experience.

The Franks first rose to prominence in 2003 when they opened Frankies 457 Spuntino Italian restaurant in Brooklyn. Over the years, the duo also published a cookbook and launched a premier brand of olive oil. Their biggest accomplishment, Simasek says, is creating a community that goes beyond food.

“Everyone is from the neighborhood, everyone is a regular, and that’s what we want in Pittsburgh,” he explains. “The goal isn’t to supplant the competition; we want to have a restaurant where we know you and you know us.”

Mt. Lebanon, 307 Beverly Road

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ’77 CLUB

’77 Club

What’s the ’77 Club? It’s a panuozzo pop-up inspired by the scrappy, DIY-attitude of the punk rock scene.

What’s a panuozzo? It’s a pizza sandwich.

At least, that’s how proprietors Dustin and Brittani Boutilier describe the wood-fired pizza dough filled with meat and veggies. Visually, they’re a cross between a gyro and a calzone. Panuozzos are a common street food in the Campania region of Italy — and they’re catching on here, too.

The Boutiliers already have 150 brewery dates booked for the season. You can keep track of them via Instagram and join the club.

I met the couple last fall at Allegheny City Brewing (where I like to chill) and ordered a TV Party Panuozzo packed with pepperoni, pickled jalapenos and fior di latte cheese — and another one called the Blockhead with creme fraiche, fontina, crispy potatoes, caramelized onion and fresh herbs.

My heart is panuoozing with love for these things!

In October 2023, the Boutiliers left Los Angeles to sling Neapolitan-style pizzas in Pittsburgh, where Brittani, a Sharon native and community activist, has family. Dustin grew up in the City of Angels and has been cooking professionally for 14 years.

Who or what inspired him to be a chef? He blames Anthony Bourdain and not wanting to get a 9-to-5 job. Dude, I can totally relate!

The couple started their roving business with a wood-fired Solo Stove Pi Prime Pizza Oven, but soon realized that with a 15-minute cook time, they couldn’t keep up with the demand.

They needed a similar but smaller product to keep wait times down and customers happy. Through Internet research, they discovered panuozzos. When their new, full-sized oven arrives in the coming weeks, they’ll stock up on cherry wood and crank out even more pizza sandwiches, Neapolitan pies, baked goods, a catering menu and a few surprises.

For the Boutiliers, the ’77 Club isn’t all about food; people are just as important as panuozzos.

In collaboration with Bunker Projects in Garfield, they’re organizing the Fruit of the Dirt block party on June 21 (the week after Lawrenceville’s Pride celebration). From noon to 7 p.m., a portion of Coral Street behind the nonprofit gallery will be filled with live music, art, fashion, vendors and refreshments.

Some day, the musically inclined couple (they both play multiple instruments) want the ’77 Club to be a sit-down eatery, performance space and community hub.

Sign me up!