PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

Wild Rosemary Bistro is back in business, and chef Raymond Mikesell is back to his roots.

The former owner of Cafe Raymond in the Strip District purchased the popular Upper St. Clair spot shortly after the closure was announced in late 2023. Founded in 2010 by friends Gloria Fortunato, Cathleen Enders and Lynne Bielewicz, the tiny, BYOB restaurant at 1469 Bower Hill Road was known for its Mediterranean cuisine, cozy aesthetic and months-long waiting list.

Mikesell, who grew up on the North Side in a large Irish-Italian family, has renovated the space — there’s now bench seating along the front windows — and the menu. Come with a big appetite and a bottle because it’s still BYOB.

That’s about the only similarity it has to its predecessor.

Wild Rosemary is open from 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday for breakfast and lunch. After Labor Day, the 24-seat eatery will open for a one-seating, family-style supper on Thursday, Friday and Saturday at 6:30 p.m. Reservations will be accepted on the website starting in late August.

On a recent visit, I was unable to choose between breakfast and lunch, so I opted for a belly-busting brunch of my own design: fluffy, lemon-blueberry pancakes with a dollop of mascarpone cream. After downing a short stack, I had a Joseppi sandwich containing fried mortadella, hot banana peppers, wild fire aioli and provolone on house-made ciabatta bread. I doused the side of breakfast potatoes in Mikesell’s signature F— Yeah! Sauce.

BLUEBERRY FRENCH TOAST | PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

It was worth the heartburn.

Other early-morning options include French toast, a smoked salmon platter, smoked corned beef hash or vegan hash and sandwiches ranging from a BLT to a breakfast burrito. I probably should’ve opted for a salad as my second course, as there are several on the menu, but Mikesell’s sandwiches are a thing of beauty. On my next visit, I will try the Bower Hill Club with turkey, rosemary ham, provolone, wildfire aioli, spring mix and tomato on toasted wheat bread.

BREAKFAST BURGER | PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

Cafe Raymond started as a 20-seat eatery, but eventually grew to hold 200. Mikesell was known for his monthly Sunday Suppers that fed up to 125 people. George Ettstaller and Adriana Stacy took over the Penn Avenue eatery earlier this year.

The family-style feasts at Wild Rosemary will harken back to those sell-out Sunday Supper events, just on a smaller scale. Mikesell continues to use locally sourced, seasonal ingredients to create an ever-evolving menu inspired by his travels abroad and recipes passed down through generations of his Irish-Italian family. He’ll continue to support local farmers and patronize the Pennsylvania Macaroni Co., a Strip District landmark that he calls “a gift from the food gods.”

You can look forward to rustic dishes such as pot roast braised in figs and red wine, arancini, some of the best meatballs I’ve ever tasted and a delicious lima bean appetizer that will make everyone at the table wonder why the green legumes get such a bad rap.

CHEF RAYMOND MIKESELL’S FAMOUS MEATBALLS | PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

Mikesell has a passion for cooking, but it was often dulled due to the sheer volume of food that was flying out of the Cafe Raymond kitchen. After stepping away from the business, he took time to unwind in Montana, where he owns property, but was drawn back to Pittsburgh to create a new concept and a new community. Wild Rosemary is an extension of his home. Family photos adorn the walls and his adult children are employees.

Don’t be surprised if the chef steps out of the kitchen to share a few stories before dinner. He encourages patrons to get to know the folks sitting next to them, too. Due to the small size of the space, you’re going to rub elbows with a stranger.

Mikesell hopes you’ll leave full — and with new friends.