PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

A portrait of the late Jason Hunt hangs in a place of honor at the Perrytown Tap House in Ross.

“We feel him here 110%,” owner Joe Hunt says of his 42-year-old son, who died in his sleep in December as renovations to the historic structure were nearing completion.

In 2022, the family purchased the former Perrytowne Drafthouse, where Jason had worked as a bartender. Knowing how important the 19th-century landmark was to the North Hills, they poured a lot of time, money and love into it. Joe’s 10 siblings pitched in on projects that ranged from wood staining to weed pulling. His sister, an art teacher, captured his fun-loving spirit in oil paint.

PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

Related: The North Hills Are Alive With New Restaurants

Steve Cannone, Jason’s best friend, serves as general manager. The service industry veteran left his job at Shorty’s Pins x Pints (where Jason had also worked) on the North Shore in January to keep the family dream alive.

It’s been a bittersweet journey, but a fitting tribute to the founder, who, last Christmas Eve, sent Pittsburgh Magazine an email alerting us to the Perrytown’s imminent return. To this longtime North Hills resident, that news was like a gift!

For more than a decade, I lived within walking distance of the Perrytowne Tavern, a precursor to the Perrytowne Drafthouse, where my cousin waitressed and I often sang a karaoke version of Meat Loaf’s “Paradise by the Dashboard Light” (both parts!).

Toward the end, the place earned a bad reputation, but seeing it sit empty for so long made me sad. During my visit to the new incarnation, I discovered that our server — who was an infant during those infamous Perrytowne Tavern days – knows my second cousin!

That’s so Pittsburgh! And that’s exactly what Cannone and the Hunts want it to be.

They opened up the space to make it bigger and more inviting. The restrooms, woodwork and tin ceiling got some much-needed TLC. A new, U-shaped bar that contains pieces of the old one dominates one half of the room and a dining area occupies the other. There’s also a small covered patio for al fresco socializing.

Above the fireplace you’ll find a large, black-and-white photograph of the building during its time as a general store. It started as a funeral home, but has operated as a bar for generations. The shelves are stocked with liquor, the beer taps are flowing and there are signature cocktails, including Jay’s Orange Crush, a mix of Jameson Orange, triple sec, orange juice, soda garnished with an orange wedge.

I can attest that the smell of cigarettes and stale beer has been replaced by heavenly aromas emanating from the kitchen.

PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

Executive Chef Miranda Gifford has taken Jason’s menu ideas from paper to heart to plate.

The 24-year-old Florida native has been cooking since she was tall enough to reach the stovetop and enjoys putting a spicy Southern spin on some items. So far the biggest seller has been her pot roast, which can be found on a burger and a plate of nachos. The Perrytown went through 10 pounds of the stuff during opening weekend.

During my visit, I had one of my favorite combos, a corned beef Reuben with a side of tater tots. Since it checked all of the boxes for me — soft marbled rye, tender meat, good sauerkraut-to-dressing ratio — there was no need for a to-go container. I split an order of sprouts with my girlfriend, but we each could’ve devoured our own heaping dish of bacon-, parmesan- and balsamic-coated veggies. Other starters include spinach artichoke dip, fried mushrooms, wings and chicken tendies.

Guests can build their own burger or opt for a specialty such as the Firehouse, a half-pound beef patty with sweet peppers, ghost pepper cheese and Carolina Reaper ranch.

In addition to pub grub, there are salads and entrees such as New York strip steak, baked Alaskan cod, Faroe Island salmon and Cajun chicken pasta. There’s also a kids’ menu. Vegan, gluten-free and dessert options will be offered soon as will weekday lunch hours. Gifford is looking forward to introducing weekly specials that give her a chance to experiment in the kitchen.

Perrytown’s motto is “Friends. Family. Community.” and they welcome constructive feedback as they start this new chapter in the building’s storied history — and in their lives.

“This has to be a place for the community,” Joe says, looking at Jason’s portrait through misty eyes. “That’s what we want. Whether you come in to have a beer and watch games or have a nice meal with your family and friends. It’s a lot of things to a lot of different people. I think he would be proud.”

Perrytown Tap House is located at 1002 Perry Highway in Ross. Hours are 3:30 to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 3:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Saturday and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday.