You’ll Feel Like a Member of the Family at Harry & Fritz

PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

When Philadelphia restaurateur Joe Beckham decided to open a new concept in Pittsburgh, he didn’t have to look far for inspiration.

Harry & Fritz is the kind of place his grandfather Harry Oxenreider and great-uncle Frederick “Fritz” Mackes frequented in the ‘30s: a casual, American eatery specializing in hearty dishes and classic cocktails served in an Art Deco environment.

PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

Black-and-white photographs of the late family members sharing meals line the walls and the seafood-heavy menu is peppered with namesake items.

The starter, Mussels “Fritz”, is a must, as I’m sure Mackes would agree.

PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

Fresh mussels from Prince Edward Island are bathed in a white wine broth with spicy kielbasa, fresh jalepeños, tomato confit and herbs. You’ll want to sop up every drop with toasted Mediterra Bakehouse sourdough bread — and then ask for seconds.

If, like me, you’re a carbohydrate connoisseur, there’s also an appetizer called Kasespatzle that’s basically German mac-and-cheese, plus jumbo soft pretzels, Sicilian-style pizzas and two types of mashed potatoes: whipped and lobster whipped.

Sorry, mashed potato purists, but lobster whipped beats whipped.

Main courses include Linguine & Clams (Littleneck clams both in the shell and tossed in a garlic white wine butter sauce topped with herbed breadcrumbs and lemon zest), Chicken Two Ways (pan-roasted breast with a thyme jus and a slice of housemade chicken strudel) and Harry’s Smash Burger (two 3-ounce patties, Cooper sharp cheese, fried onions, burger sauce and pickles on a potato bun with fries and Caesar aioli).

PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

No offense to Oxenreider, but I’m burgered out. I opted for an 8-ounce filet of wild-caught salmon, seared and served on a bed of French lentils with a mustard sauce. What a catch! I inhaled every morsel down to the last legume.

When I’m dining solo, I prefer to sit at the bar, especially one that’s long and dimly lit, but, I‘ll admit that the leather booths at Harry & Fritz look inviting. I’m thinking about moving into one.

If you’re feeling sleepy from ingesting all of those carbs, book a room at the Courtyard by Marriott, which is located in the same building. Now that I’m in my late-40s, Apps & Naps at Harry & Fritz sounds like my kind of event.

PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

Foodies will also find fresh oysters, lobster tail, shrimp and a variety of steaks, including a bacon-wrapped filet mignon, a bone-in ribeye and a 10-ounce hanger cut that’s a medium-rare tribute to Uncle Mackes.

Filled to the brim with Beckham’s family recipes, I had to take his Aunt Helen’s famous triple-layered devil’s-food-and-buttercream cake to go.

Although he was born, raised and still resides in Philly, Beckham’s service industry career began in the early-1990s on the South Side of Pittsburgh.

He started as a busboy at Cafe Allegro, tended bar at Nick’s Fat City and, before returning to Eastern Pennsylvania, helped Steve Zumoff and Scott Kramer launch Lava Lounge, a quirky hangout that closed in 2016.

Zumoff, who is in the process of opening Spork Island Trading Co. in a storefront across the street from Harry & Fritz, helped Beckham find the prime Penn Avenue space.

Bloodlines and lava both run deep here.

Harry & Fritz is at 947 Penn Ave., Downtown. Hours are 4 to 10 p.m. daily.