Edit ModuleEdit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

Pittsburgh Chefs Demonstrate Devonshire Domination

10 of Pittsburgh’s top chefs faced off at LeMont in a Turkey Devonshire throwdown for the ages.

photos by Laura petrilla

One of the first things I did when I dove deep into the history of the Turkey Devonshire for a February-issue feature on Pittsburgh’s most outstanding sandwich was reach out to Tim Ryan, president of The Culinary Institute of America (and one of the 50 Greatest Pittsburghers of All Time). In addition to sharing a wealth of information about the Devonshire, he suggested we throw a competition to see if contemporary Pittsburgh chefs could help restore the noble sandwich to its place of glory.

On Monday, 10 chefs stepped into ring at LeMont in Mt. Washington — Turkey Devonshire creator Frank Blandi’s final restaurant — to determine whose sandwich would reign supreme: Robert Vargo (LeMont), Brandon Fisher (Union Standard), James Ciminillo (Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group), Csilla Thackray (Legume), Kevin Sousa (Superior Motors), Abbigail Hansel (Relish/Gluten Free Goat), Mike Rado (Brick Shop/Over Eden), Christian Frangiadis (Spork), Joe Kiefer (Cinderlands Beer Co.) and Dennis Marron (Merchant Oyster Company).

Following a thorough evaluation of each Turkey Devonshire, the judges — Ryan, Sonja J Finn (Dinette, Cafe Carnegie), Heather Abraham (KDKA) and I — chose Ciminillo, chef of the forthcoming Coop De Ville in the Strip. We appreciated how he kept close to the classic rendition yet found ways to elevate each component of the dish. Brined and smoked turkey, Japanese milk bread, bacon-breadcrumbs and a smattering of herbs put him over the top.

Ciminillo walks away with pride and also a rather terrific prize; he's headed to the CIA's Napa Valley campus for a conference, a wine tour of Napa and a tour of the kitchen at the famed French Laundry in Yountville. The trip is sponsored by The Culinary Institute of America with Don's Appliances providing the air fare. 

Picking the winner wasn’t easy. I’m not saying this to blow smoke: every single participant made a praiseworthy version of the Turkey Devonshire. Hopefully, we’ll see a few of them on menus around town.

We'll have a video of the event soon.

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit Module

Edit Module Edit ModuleShow TagsEdit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags Edit Module
Edit ModuleShow Tags

The Latest

Recommended Pittsburgh Eating: 4 Recent Dishes I Loved

PM Dining Critic Hal B. Klein says corned beef inside an import business, Sichuan smashed eggplants, smoked chicken wings and a cornbread dessert have his attention.

How to Celebrate the Moon Landing Anniversary in Pittsburgh

To celebrate Apollo 11’s golden anniversary, several local events are set to take place, from film screenings to new exhibits and more.

5 Pittsburgh Vintage Homes Stores You'll Want to Explore

PM Editoral Intern Ellie Pesetsky shares some of her favorite up-cycled furniture and home decor stores in and around Pittsburgh.

Eleven Couples to be Married after Love at First Bite

Wedding bells will be chiming for multiple couples this weekend … and it’s taking place at Primanti Bros. in the Strip District.

Pop Culture Pop Up Bars Are Here to Stay

Nintendo-themed Level Up is in Market Square for another week, but if you miss it, you can catch the Pokémon-themed bar coming this fall.

How Scary is the New Steel Curtain Coaster at Kennywood?

The ride claims records for the world’s tallest looping coaster and tallest inversion; it also has more inversions than any coaster in North America. We rode it this morning. Here's what we have to say.

The 400-Word Review: Point Blank

Netflix's action thriller is forgettable, but serves well as a quick throwback.

Pittsburgh Marks the First Stop of the New Whiskey Rebellion Trail

Think the story of American whiskey begins in Kentucky? Think again.

Pirates’ Possibilities Include Contention in Surprising Season’s Second Half

It hasn’t gone according to the original script, but the Pirates have found a way to stay relevant — and may yet be capable of finishing what they started.

The 400-Word Review: Stuber

There are laughs in the new buddy comedy, but they're dragged down by bad decisions.

Cornbread, A New Soul Food Restaurant, Opens in an Unexpected Location

Adenah Bayoh and Elzadie “Zadie” Smith bring their fast-casual concept to the West Mifflin Walmart.

The Park After Dark

Kennywood’s “Night Rider” tickets may be the best bet for many visitors.

The Best Tips for Finding a Wedding Photographer

There’s no need to stress about finding the best photographer thanks to these helpful tips from local professionals.

Pittsburgh Bartenders Bring the Garden to the Glass

Bartenders are using centrifugal force, tinctures and more to amplify and preserve the season's harvest.

Oakmont Glassware Company Looking to Join the Big Time

Amanda Lee began painting glasses in her basement to help pay for her college education. Today, she ships her products across the globe from a new, shabby-chic warehouse and gift shop.