Dig in With Graver: Say Farewell to a French Bakery as March Comes in Like a Paper-Eating Lion

PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

Jean-Marc Chatellier’s French Bakery is saying au revoir to Millvale.

After making gourmet pastries in the borough for more than three decades, the company’s namesake from Western France is retiring and closing the North Avenue shop.

“Small bakeries like ours will exist only in memories, replaced by chains,” his wife, Sandy, wrote in a social media post. “It’s happening in France, here and all over the world.”

You can try to snag one last apple strudel, croissant or Brenton shortbread from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Friday, Feb. 27 and 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 28.

On behalf of all dessert-loving Pittsburghers, I’d like to say, “Merci for the memories — and the macarons!”

Lilith chefs pull into Station

The only thing that could cheer me up after losing a French bakery is hearing about a new concept from Lilith owners Jamilka Borges and Dianne DeStefano.

Since 2023, the pair have run one of Pittsburgh Magazine’s Best Restaurants. They’re slated to open Giulia later this year in the former Station space in Bloomfield. The eatery will serve Italian coastal cuisine.

Last month, Borges reeled in a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for Best Chef Mid-Atlantic.

It’s nice to know there’ll be another spot for high-end seafood on Liberty Avenue; the award-winning Fet-Fisk, which specialties in Nordic cuisine, opened there in 2024. The busy thoroughfare is home to a lot of my favorite bites, including Best New Restaurant Dad’s Dog & Burger, Apteka, a revamped Baby Loves Tacos, Phat Bagel, Linea Verde Green Market and Tessaro’s.

PHOTO COURTESY OF KENNYWOOD

The Mane Event

After years of trash-at Kennywood Park, Leo the Paper-Eating Lion is throwing it back.

Since 1964, the interactive garbage can with a vacuum-powered muzzle has been growling at guests from his circus wagon for their cups, napkins, chewing gum wrappers and drinking straws (he’s trying to cut back on empty cigarette packages).

For the 2026 season, Leo’s been restored to his original look, which includes a full body. I’m not “lion” when I say I’ll miss the floating that tried to eat my child 15 years ago

PHOTO COURTESY OF KRISTY GRAVER

Forward March

Here are some foodie things to look forward to:

March is National Peanut Month, so stock up on the addictive offerings from Forge Fried. Since March 4 is National Snack Day, say “What the shell” and double down on that order.

Starting March 6, Pigeon Bagels from Squirrel Hill will be available at Kinder Being Cafe on the North Side.

East End Brewing Co. in Larimer will host its GOOD WOOD Barrel-Aged Beer Fest on March 7.

On March 9, Page’s Dairy Mart reopens for its 75th season on the South Side and Glassport-based Glads Deli will launch a second location in Penn Township.

March 14 is National Pi Day. If, like me, you don’t care about the mathematical constant π, then make it about dessert instead. I plan to pick up and eat a slice of pie like my Grandpa Graver (pictured above) did back in the ‘50s.

March 24 is National Cheesesteak Day, so order one The Tony Way.

Fish fry season runs through April 3.