Three's the Charm

Wild Rosemary is a small but promising new bistro in the South Hills opened by a trio of friends.



Photo by Laura Petrilla

Once upon a few months ago, three friends—Gloria Fortunato, Cathleen Enders and Lynne Bielewicz—were driving down Bower Hill Road when they unexpectedly crashed headlong into their life’s dream. As the story goes, Cathleen screeched on her breaks, turned her car around and scribbled down the “For Rent” number. That evening, she called the landlord, only to find the dream had stalled. The space had just been rented. But not for long: Happily for the trio, within 48 hours the “other party” declined the lease.

Cathleen, chief artist and designer, assumed all decorating and management of the house. Taking the role of chef was Gloria, a graduate of the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute who has a dossier that includes a 15-year stint at Café Allegro (nix that rumor that the bistro is Allegro’s offspring—it is NOT). Lynne is the baker. The business flows in her veins; she’s the granddaughter of the owners of Ziegler’s Café, formerly located across from an incline on Mount Washington.
It was June. By Sept. 30, Wild Rosemary (a moniker Cathleen and Gloria had once used as caterers) was open. Recast as a quaint little Euro-bistro, as darling as it is cozy, it’s a place where I see lots of long conversations and people falling in love.

Sunken into the hillside as if someone had used a giant shoehorn on the winding portion of Bower Hill Road that connects Bridgeville to Upper St. Clair, the tiny, flat-topped structure has had incarnations that include a pizza shop and a Dairy Queen. Today, mismatched silver, a faded-blue hutch and gas fireplace are surrounded by bright red tile. “I don’t think we ever thought of it as hard work until we laid the tile floor,” laughs Lynne. “Nearly 125 cases of slate. If we could install that, I guessed there was nothing we couldn’t do.”

With only eight tables and in spite of the foul economic weather, the place has become so busy that the team of friends currently has stopped serving lunch in an effort to take back their lives; however, they are extending dinner hours from 8 to 10 p.m., giving tables a chance to turn over. “We’re not moving up, out or wide; this is the concept we can handle,“ says Fortunato.

wild rosemary

Fede ricotta gnocchi in brown butter-sage
sauce.

To keep such a tiny spot on its feet, there are some simple house rules. For example, don’t ask for bread. Instead, Gloria makes these neat crackers, her mom’s recipe for “old-school flatbread” using semolina. The crackers are served with what constitutes an appetizer, all complimentary. This effort breaks the ice, providing time to look around and feel comfortable, as the chef sees it. And who can complain about a goat-cheese soufflé surrounded by assorted marinated olives? Or bruschetta with roasted grape tomatoes, so plump and juicy you can hardly believe there is snow on the ground.
Fortunato presides over the kitchen, responding to every request as though she were on a demanding lecture circuit. She likes clear flavors (even fresh herbs are kept at a minimum) and cares that what’s on the plate “eats well together.“ Her instincts are unaffectedly refined, changing with the seasons and what’s fresh at the market.

The New York strip was excellent, sophisticated in a stout-beer sauce laid on with a light touch, including a delicious potato gratin and glistening arugula in delightful apposition to the steak.

I have quickly become addicted to the arugula that Linda Scanlon from Paragon Monteverde brings in just for Wild Rosemary. Dark and almost fleshy, with a bite that is disguised, it reminds me that people have forgotten how to use bitter things. It’s tossed with seeded tomatoes, red onion, salt and cracked black pepper.

I recommend grilled veal medallions with sun-dried tomato butter, roman artichokes and brie. Or try any version of scallops being offered—I had them grilled with spicy saffron broth, julienned vegetables and parmesan-reggiano. Another time they were served with roasted sweet pepper and asparagus, a shallot cream sauce and spaghetti.

A French-cut pork chop is outstanding, moist and served with pommes frites, or as Gloria would say, “Vinegar on fries—hello!—what’s better?” Credit for the Fede ricotta gnocchi goes to artist and chef Steve Salvi of Fede Corp., a custom-pasta company for area restaurateurs, but Gloria makes them glisten under a brown butter-sage sauce and side of arugula.

The menu changes every other week. As the days grow longer, l look forward to grilled whole fish, spring lamb, Jerusalem artichokes, fingerling potatoes, peas, beans…. With Bedner’s Farm down the street, imagine the tomatoes.
Desserts—usually a cake, something with fruit, something with chocolate—will blow your mind. “I think you should start with dessert and only have salad if there’s room left over,” says Lynne. I was taken with a spice cake in the form of a snowball, and heard about a Black Forest cheesecake with chocolate crust lined with dried cherries; I loved the German-chocolate cake with tons of coconut.

There is something esoteric about Wild Rosemary, something intangible that I felt even before my first bite. I love the personal coffee press, the sweet service, the sense of stolen time. And how nice to return home, watch the news and a little late-night TV or an old movie, as is our custom, and not toss from an overly full belly. There might even be a slim chance of a midnight snack.


1469 Bower Hill Road, Upper St. Clair; 412/221-1232, wildrosemary.com. Tues.-Sat. 5-10 p.m.; Evening dishes: $22-$42; Dessert: $7. BYOB, major credit cards, wheelchair access, free parking, reservations strongly suggested, nonsmoking.

Edit Module

Edit ModuleShow Tags

Hot Reads

Best of the 'Burgh 2016

Best of the 'Burgh 2016

We scoured the region to bring you 53 items we’ve deemed this year’s “Best of the ’Burgh,” as well as 8 stellar local Instagram accounts you don’t want to miss.
See Yinz: PittGirl Says Goodbye

See Yinz: PittGirl Says Goodbye

After writing for seven years about the city for Pittsburgh Magazine and pittsburghmagazine.com, Virginia Montanez is discontinuing her blog and column.
Restaurant Review: Whitfield at Ace Hotel Pittsburgh

Restaurant Review: Whitfield at Ace Hotel Pittsburgh

The restaurant at Ace Hotel in East Liberty hits some high notes as it finds itself.
Pride of McKeesport: WNBA Star Swin Cash

Pride of McKeesport: WNBA Star Swin Cash

During her final season of professional basketball, Cash remains ferocious on the court and selfless everywhere else.
Edit ModuleShow Tags

The 412

Pittsburgh-Area Fireworks 2016: When & Where to Watch Them

Pittsburgh-Area Fireworks 2016: When & Where to Watch Them

You can get your fill of fireworks all weekend long, if you know where and when to look.
Next Steps Taken in Restoration of Allegheny Landing

Next Steps Taken in Restoration of Allegheny Landing

Officials broke ground Thursday for the reconstruction of the sculpture park’s portion of the Three Rivers Heritage Trail.
Meet The Thunderbirds, Pittsburgh’s Professional Frisbee Team

Meet The Thunderbirds, Pittsburgh’s Professional Frisbee Team

Part of The American Ultimate Disc League, the Thunderbirds' players have a passion for the game — and the fans to prove it.
Schenley Plaza to host International Sand Sculpting Competition

Schenley Plaza to host International Sand Sculpting Competition

The event commemorates Pittsburgh’s Bicentennial with massive sand sculptures.

Sign Up for the 412 e-Newsletter

 

Our new, daily e-newsletter is curated by the editors of Pittsburgh Magazine and is designed to give you the very best Pittsburgh has to offer -- delivered directly to your inbox.

Sign me up!
* Email
 First Name
 Last Name
  * = Required Field
 
Edit ModuleShow Tags Edit ModuleShow Tags

Hot Reads

Best of the 'Burgh 2016

Best of the 'Burgh 2016

We scoured the region to bring you 53 items we’ve deemed this year’s “Best of the ’Burgh,” as well as 8 stellar local Instagram accounts you don’t want to miss.
See Yinz: PittGirl Says Goodbye

See Yinz: PittGirl Says Goodbye

After writing for seven years about the city for Pittsburgh Magazine and pittsburghmagazine.com, Virginia Montanez is discontinuing her blog and column.
Restaurant Review: Whitfield at Ace Hotel Pittsburgh

Restaurant Review: Whitfield at Ace Hotel Pittsburgh

The restaurant at Ace Hotel in East Liberty hits some high notes as it finds itself.
Pride of McKeesport: WNBA Star Swin Cash

Pride of McKeesport: WNBA Star Swin Cash

During her final season of professional basketball, Cash remains ferocious on the court and selfless everywhere else.
Idol Find: Pittsburgh Rapper Teams Up with Dad Jimmy McNichol for New Show

Idol Find: Pittsburgh Rapper Teams Up with Dad Jimmy McNichol for New Show

Research led Kellee Maize to discover she is the daughter of the former teen singing sensation. Now she and McNichol are teaming up to develop a television series to help other parents and children find each other.
Daytripping: Rating the Roller Coasters at Cedar Point

Daytripping: Rating the Roller Coasters at Cedar Point

One day, 18 roller coasters, four queasy stomachs, two cheeseburgers, one fried dough … whew.
Edit Module

Edit Module

Edit ModuleShow Tags

On the Blogs


Next Steps Taken in Restoration of Allegheny Landing

Next Steps Taken in Restoration of Allegheny Landing

Officials broke ground Thursday for the reconstruction of the sculpture park’s portion of the Three Rivers Heritage Trail.

Comments


Pittsburgh, only cooler
PittGirl: How You Should Grade A Squishy Tongue

PittGirl: How You Should Grade A Squishy Tongue

Kennywood Park opens soon and new this season is the return of the famed whale at the entrance of Noah’s Ark. In the name of science, PittGirl paid an early visit to test the squishiness quotient of the whale's all-important tongue.

Comments


All the foodie news that's fit to blog
Root and Heart Farm: Winning Friends With Salad

Root and Heart Farm: Winning Friends With Salad

Jen Urich's Gibsonia farm is mixing it up in just the right way.

Comments


Not just good stuff. Great stuff.
The Best 7 Spots in Pittsburgh to Watch the 2016 Euro Cup

The Best 7 Spots in Pittsburgh to Watch the 2016 Euro Cup

Grab your kits, scarfs and get ready to watch the Euro 2016 Pittsburgh-style. We'll show you where to go to get your fan on.

Comments


You Will Need to Use Your IQ to Make This Escape

You Will Need to Use Your IQ to Make This Escape

Perhaps the most impressive aspects of IQ Escape in Ross Township are the stagecraft and setting. The rooms are elegant, convincing and immersive.

Comments


Mike Prisuta's Sports Section

A weekly look at the games people are playing and the people who are playing them.
Bucs' Biggest Problem Easier to Identify than Solve

Bucs' Biggest Problem Easier to Identify than Solve

As the Pirates try to climb out of a demoralizing slump, one factor has emerged as the team's biggest shortcoming.

Comments


Style. Design. Goods. Hide your credit card.
No Passport Required for Handmade Spanish Jewelry at Roberta Weissburg Leathers

No Passport Required for Handmade Spanish Jewelry at Roberta Weissburg Leathers

Uno de 50 is a jewelry brand utilizing high-end silver, leather and Swarovski crystals.

Comments


Sean Collier's Popcorn for Dinner

The movies that are playing in Pittsburgh –– and, more importantly, whether or not they're worth your time.
Demons, Orcs, Hipsters and More at the Multiplex

Demons, Orcs, Hipsters and More at the Multiplex

Reviews of "The Conjuring 2," "Warcraft," "Maggie's Plan," plus local movie news and notes.

Comments


Everything you need to know about getting married in Pittsburgh today.
Noah’s Ark Nuptials: One Couple’s Kennywood Wedding

Noah’s Ark Nuptials: One Couple’s Kennywood Wedding

The restoration of the iconic Noah’s Ark whale entrance came just in time to be the backdrop for this Pittsburgh couple’s wedding.

Comments


The latest tips and trends to refresh your home.
Purple Reign: PPG Paints Unveils 2017 Color of the Year

Purple Reign: PPG Paints Unveils 2017 Color of the Year

Violet Verbena’s grey-purple tones are playful, elegant and calming. Plus, get the history behind some of Pittsburgh's architectural wonders.

Comments


The hottest topics in higher education
Summer Robotics Camp Offered to High-School Students

Summer Robotics Camp Offered to High-School Students

The camp is a collaboration between two area universities and is open to students entering grades 9-12.

Comments