Three's the Charm

Wild Rosemary is a small but promising new bistro in the South Hills opened by a trio of friends.



Photo by Laura Petrilla

Once upon a few months ago, three friends—Gloria Fortunato, Cathleen Enders and Lynne Bielewicz—were driving down Bower Hill Road when they unexpectedly crashed headlong into their life’s dream. As the story goes, Cathleen screeched on her breaks, turned her car around and scribbled down the “For Rent” number. That evening, she called the landlord, only to find the dream had stalled. The space had just been rented. But not for long: Happily for the trio, within 48 hours the “other party” declined the lease.

Cathleen, chief artist and designer, assumed all decorating and management of the house. Taking the role of chef was Gloria, a graduate of the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute who has a dossier that includes a 15-year stint at Café Allegro (nix that rumor that the bistro is Allegro’s offspring—it is NOT). Lynne is the baker. The business flows in her veins; she’s the granddaughter of the owners of Ziegler’s Café, formerly located across from an incline on Mount Washington.
It was June. By Sept. 30, Wild Rosemary (a moniker Cathleen and Gloria had once used as caterers) was open. Recast as a quaint little Euro-bistro, as darling as it is cozy, it’s a place where I see lots of long conversations and people falling in love.

Sunken into the hillside as if someone had used a giant shoehorn on the winding portion of Bower Hill Road that connects Bridgeville to Upper St. Clair, the tiny, flat-topped structure has had incarnations that include a pizza shop and a Dairy Queen. Today, mismatched silver, a faded-blue hutch and gas fireplace are surrounded by bright red tile. “I don’t think we ever thought of it as hard work until we laid the tile floor,” laughs Lynne. “Nearly 125 cases of slate. If we could install that, I guessed there was nothing we couldn’t do.”

With only eight tables and in spite of the foul economic weather, the place has become so busy that the team of friends currently has stopped serving lunch in an effort to take back their lives; however, they are extending dinner hours from 8 to 10 p.m., giving tables a chance to turn over. “We’re not moving up, out or wide; this is the concept we can handle,“ says Fortunato.

wild rosemary

Fede ricotta gnocchi in brown butter-sage
sauce.

To keep such a tiny spot on its feet, there are some simple house rules. For example, don’t ask for bread. Instead, Gloria makes these neat crackers, her mom’s recipe for “old-school flatbread” using semolina. The crackers are served with what constitutes an appetizer, all complimentary. This effort breaks the ice, providing time to look around and feel comfortable, as the chef sees it. And who can complain about a goat-cheese soufflé surrounded by assorted marinated olives? Or bruschetta with roasted grape tomatoes, so plump and juicy you can hardly believe there is snow on the ground.
Fortunato presides over the kitchen, responding to every request as though she were on a demanding lecture circuit. She likes clear flavors (even fresh herbs are kept at a minimum) and cares that what’s on the plate “eats well together.“ Her instincts are unaffectedly refined, changing with the seasons and what’s fresh at the market.

The New York strip was excellent, sophisticated in a stout-beer sauce laid on with a light touch, including a delicious potato gratin and glistening arugula in delightful apposition to the steak.

I have quickly become addicted to the arugula that Linda Scanlon from Paragon Monteverde brings in just for Wild Rosemary. Dark and almost fleshy, with a bite that is disguised, it reminds me that people have forgotten how to use bitter things. It’s tossed with seeded tomatoes, red onion, salt and cracked black pepper.

I recommend grilled veal medallions with sun-dried tomato butter, roman artichokes and brie. Or try any version of scallops being offered—I had them grilled with spicy saffron broth, julienned vegetables and parmesan-reggiano. Another time they were served with roasted sweet pepper and asparagus, a shallot cream sauce and spaghetti.

A French-cut pork chop is outstanding, moist and served with pommes frites, or as Gloria would say, “Vinegar on fries—hello!—what’s better?” Credit for the Fede ricotta gnocchi goes to artist and chef Steve Salvi of Fede Corp., a custom-pasta company for area restaurateurs, but Gloria makes them glisten under a brown butter-sage sauce and side of arugula.

The menu changes every other week. As the days grow longer, l look forward to grilled whole fish, spring lamb, Jerusalem artichokes, fingerling potatoes, peas, beans…. With Bedner’s Farm down the street, imagine the tomatoes.
Desserts—usually a cake, something with fruit, something with chocolate—will blow your mind. “I think you should start with dessert and only have salad if there’s room left over,” says Lynne. I was taken with a spice cake in the form of a snowball, and heard about a Black Forest cheesecake with chocolate crust lined with dried cherries; I loved the German-chocolate cake with tons of coconut.

There is something esoteric about Wild Rosemary, something intangible that I felt even before my first bite. I love the personal coffee press, the sweet service, the sense of stolen time. And how nice to return home, watch the news and a little late-night TV or an old movie, as is our custom, and not toss from an overly full belly. There might even be a slim chance of a midnight snack.


1469 Bower Hill Road, Upper St. Clair; 412/221-1232, wildrosemary.com. Tues.-Sat. 5-10 p.m.; Evening dishes: $22-$42; Dessert: $7. BYOB, major credit cards, wheelchair access, free parking, reservations strongly suggested, nonsmoking.

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit Module

Edit ModuleShow Tags

Hot Reads

Top 10 Things to Do in Pittsburgh in April

Top 10 Things to Do in Pittsburgh in April

This month's best bets in the ’Burgh.
Take a Hike: 10 of the Best Trails in the Pittsburgh Area

Take a Hike: 10 of the Best Trails in the Pittsburgh Area

Lace up your sneakers or hiking boots and head outdoors for 10 great walks for spring.
412 Food Rescue: Revolutionary Repurposing

412 Food Rescue: Revolutionary Repurposing

Local nonprofit organization 412 Food Rescue is taking food that otherwise would be tossed aside and connecting it with those in need through-of-the-moment technology.
Spring Fashion: The Height of White

Spring Fashion: The Height of White

Fashion is white haute this spring with the best looks from local stores.
Edit ModuleShow Tags

The 412

Celebrating 75 Years: Connecting History with Community

Celebrating 75 Years: Connecting History with Community

The Heinz History Center’s World War II traveling exhibit focuses on western Pennsylvania’s ties to history.
Pittsburgh Parks Conservancy's Meg Cheever To Step Down

Pittsburgh Parks Conservancy's Meg Cheever To Step Down

The nonprofit's founding President and CEO will leave her position early next year.
Pittsburgh Pens' Spouse is ‘Hockey Wife’ On and Off Camera

Pittsburgh Pens' Spouse is ‘Hockey Wife’ On and Off Camera

After a Stanley Cup-winning season for the Pittsburgh Penguins, one player’s wife is working on her own claim to fame.
What to Do with Unused Churches in Pittsburgh

What to Do with Unused Churches in Pittsburgh

A Pittsburgh preservation group says there are approximately 30 unused churches in Allegheny County.
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

Hot Reads

Top 10 Things to Do in Pittsburgh in April

Top 10 Things to Do in Pittsburgh in April

This month's best bets in the ’Burgh.
Take a Hike: 10 of the Best Trails in the Pittsburgh Area

Take a Hike: 10 of the Best Trails in the Pittsburgh Area

Lace up your sneakers or hiking boots and head outdoors for 10 great walks for spring.
412 Food Rescue: Revolutionary Repurposing

412 Food Rescue: Revolutionary Repurposing

Local nonprofit organization 412 Food Rescue is taking food that otherwise would be tossed aside and connecting it with those in need through-of-the-moment technology.
Spring Fashion: The Height of White

Spring Fashion: The Height of White

Fashion is white haute this spring with the best looks from local stores.
Restaurant Review: Pork & Beans

Restaurant Review: Pork & Beans

The latest restaurant from the Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group brings Texas-style smoked meats and more to Downtown.
Daytripping: Brave the Cave

Daytripping: Brave the Cave

Go subterranean at Laurel Caverns, the largest cave in Pennsylvania.
Edit Module
Edit Module

Edit ModuleShow Tags

On the Blogs


Celebrating 75 Years: Connecting History with Community

Celebrating 75 Years: Connecting History with Community

The Heinz History Center’s World War II traveling exhibit focuses on western Pennsylvania’s ties to history.

Comments


All the foodie news that's fit to blog
Kamayan Feast Coming To Kaya in the Strip District

Kamayan Feast Coming To Kaya in the Strip District

Executive Chef Ben Sloan will offer a festive, eat-with-your-hands spread on Tuesday nights.

Comments


Not just good stuff. Great stuff.
Five Inexpensive But Memorable Date Spots in Pittsburgh

Five Inexpensive But Memorable Date Spots in Pittsburgh

These spots are tailored for couples who are looking for a simple, chill night out on Valentine’s Day (or any other day). If your significant other isn’t the type to be wooed by expensive wines and chocolates, this is the list for you.

Comments


The (Very Good) Brewery You Should Be Patronizing in Homestead

The (Very Good) Brewery You Should Be Patronizing in Homestead

Voodoo Brewery is an enticing alternative to the many chains in and around the Waterfront.

Comments


Mike Prisuta's Sports Section

A weekly look at the games people are playing and the people who are playing them.
Steelers’ Philosophy Back on Display After Hightower Flirtation

Steelers’ Philosophy Back on Display After Hightower Flirtation

Even as they entertained Dont’a Hightower for nearly seven hours during a free-agent recruiting trip to the South Side, the Steelers never lost sight of who they are or what they’re all about.

Comments


Style. Design. Goods. Hide your credit card.
Turn Your Bath into a Spa with These Oils

Turn Your Bath into a Spa with These Oils

The miniature bath- and shower-oil collection from Aromatherapy Associates makes every shower a luxury experience.

Comments


The movies that are playing in Pittsburgh –– and, more importantly, whether or not they're worth your time.
The CMU Film Fest Opens with One of 2016's Best

The CMU Film Fest Opens with One of 2016's Best

Reviews of two films appearing at the 2017 Carnegie Mellon International Film Festival: "I, Daniel Blake," and "The Eagle Huntress." Plus local movie news and notes.

Comments


Everything you need to know about getting married in Pittsburgh today.
#Wedding: What’s Trending in the Wedding World

#Wedding: What’s Trending in the Wedding World

Married couples talk hashtags — and why they used them at their weddings.

Comments


Weekly inspiration for your home from the editors of Pittsburgh Magazine
Get the Scoop Behind One of Pittsburgh’s Most Unique Condos

Get the Scoop Behind One of Pittsburgh’s Most Unique Condos

The Carnegie Museum of Art’s new exhibit features the works of architect Arthur Lubetz and Front Studio, including the vibrant Glass Lofts Building in Garfield.

Comments


The hottest topics in higher education
New Club is a Hit at Thiel College

New Club is a Hit at Thiel College

The Outdoor Recreation Club becomes the newest student organization at the college.

Comments