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Parts & Service Adds Pizza To Superior Motors

Executive Chef Kevin Sousa and Pastry Chef Kate Carney are cooking sourdough pizza in an outdoor brick oven.




photos by hal b. klein

 

It might have been a long wait for Kevin Sousa to open his Braddock restaurant, Superior Motors, but it didn't take too much time for him to fire up an auxiliary expansion. As of this week, he and his team are slinging pizza in the restaurant’s adjoining lot in a space they’re calling Parts & Service (named for the mural on the high left corner of the Superior Motors building.

“We didn’t expect to [get this running] before the winter. But then our bread program started coming together. After [hosting several events] in the space, we thought we might as well put it to use,” Sousa says.
 


 

Sousa and Kate Carney, the restaurant’s outstanding pastry chef, are collaborating on the pizza. “I worked most in pizza early in my career. It’s nice going back to something I feel really comfortable with,” says Carney, who worked for more than three years at Spak Bros. in Garfield as well as a lengthy stint at Mezzo Downtown before switching to the pastry side of the dough. She’s worked as a pastry chef at Whitfield in East Liberty and Gaucho Parrilla Argentina in the Strip.

The pizza is built on naturally leavened sourdough; a six-day fermentation proved a bit too long the other day, so Carney likely will work somewhere in the four or five day range. The crust, slightly thicker than the neo-Neapolitan style that’s the current brick-oven standard, is enjoyably chewy yet still a bit airy and is buoyed by the pleasant aroma and tang of the long ferment.
 


 

“Everyone is doing a Neapolitan style. We felt like this dough was so good, we wanted to let that shine. So, it’s thicker — I don’t know what “Pittsburgh style” really is [defined as] but it’s what I grew up with. And with the brick oven, there’s a little char on the bottom,” Sousa says.

Sousa says the rotating selection of custom pies will reflect both what’s happening in the restaurant as well as whatever strikes the fancy of the culinary team. I sampled a koji-cured pork loin (a tasty treat all on its own), black garlic and burrata, enhanced with just a touch of kimchi, that hit a nice zone of funky, sweet, hot and milky. A pizza featuring sweet-soy, Gorgonzola, pear and fig-jam combination likely will be on the opening menu, too.
 


 

Parts & Service will be open 6pm to 10pm Monday through Friday for as long as the weather remains bearable enough to hang outdoors eating pizza, which will be priced between $10–17. The full Superior Motors menu, as well drinks from the wonderful bar program, also is available in the outdoor space.

And no, even though these parts and services come from Superior Motors, there won’t be delivery.
 

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Hal B. Klein is Pittsburgh Magazine’s associate editor and restaurant critic. He is an award-winning food and drinks writer. In his spare time, Hal can be found in his kitchen, in his garden and exploring the wonders of Pittsburgh. Follow him on Twitter (@HalBKlein) and Instagram (@halbklein).

 

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