Getaway: Bethlehem, Unplugged

For music, massage and a good dose of holiday magic.
Bethlehem Sweet Potato

PHOTOS BY HUCK BEARD

There are weekend getaways, and then there are weekends that seem determined to deliver a little bit of everything. In Bethlehem, Pa., a single escape can include a rock legend in concert, a restorative spa retreat, a parade of memorable meals, a little casino action and a stroll through a European-inspired Christmas market, all without ever needing to move your car.

My home base was Wind Creek Bethlehem, a sprawling casino resort on the grounds of the former Bethlehem Steel plant, where industrial history meets modern indulgence.

Rock ’n’ Roll Check-In.  The weekend began with dinner at Urban Table, where crab and shrimp dip — rich with Cotija cheese and sweet corn, served with tortilla chips — set the tone. Potato and chorizo croquettes, studded with bacon and scallions, offered another savory opening act.

But the evening’s headliner was tuning up just down the hall at Wind Creek Event Center: Sting.

The Sting 3.0 Tour opened with the former Police frontman reaching into the band’s catalog for “Every Little Thing She Does Is Magic” and “Spirits in the Material World.” From there he moved into solo material, including “Fragile” and “Be Still My Beating Heart,” showcasing the melodic sophistication and unmistakable voice that have sustained his career for decades. The stripped-down 3.0 format put the focus squarely on the music, allowing familiar songs to breathe while reminding us how much ground Sting has covered since his band days.

The Art of Doing Nothing.  Next morning, I headed to the Spa at Wind Creek, a 14,000-square-foot retreat that makes a persuasive argument for building an entire vacation around relaxation. The amenities alone could occupy an entire day: vitality pools with jets at different temperatures, infrared saunas, an aromatherapy steam room and a shallow wading pool suspended beneath swinging chairs. The effect is less traditional hotel spa than an elaborate sanctuary designed to make the outside world feel very far away.

The suspended reading chairs were a particular revelation. Gently swaying above the water, they offered the perfect excuse to open a book and lose track of time.

My Swedish massage delivered wonderfully deep pressure, working away tension with long, soothing strokes. The Elemis Skin Energizer facial for men followed, combining exfoliation and hydration with steam, extractions, facial massage and a targeted scalp massage. It’s so nice to have nowhere to be. Eventually, however, the promise of lunch proved irresistible.

At Bethlehem Barrel & Drafthouse, an appetizer flight offered four distinct reasons to linger: pickled vegetables with whipped feta, marrow butter spread across grilled country bread, hand-breaded mozzarella with pomodoro sauce and pierogies topped with crispy kielbasa, five-hour onions and chive sour cream. It was a generous tour of comfort-food territory, with the pierogies delivering a particularly satisfying nod to Pennsylvania’s culinary heritage.

Dinner at Chop House raised the stakes. Lobster and short rib pappardelle paired two luxurious ingredients in a rich pasta dish, but the evening’s unexpected star was the bourbon sweet potato with spiced marshmallow. Sweet, savory and warmly spiced, it was the kind of side dish that steals the meal.

Afterward, I explored the casino, where more than 2,000 slot machines glow alongside table games, poker, roulette and live-dealer stadium gaming. Whether you prefer the traditional feel of a blackjack table or the convenience of placing bets at an individual touchscreen, there are plenty of ways to try your luck. My advice? Set a budget before the flashing lights and celebratory sounds start working their particular magic.

Bethlehem Tree 1

A Little Christmas in SteelStacks.  The final morning brought a change of scenery and a welcome dose of seasonal charm. A short walk from the resort, ArtsQuest’s Christkindlmarkt transforms the historic SteelStacks campus into a German-inspired Christmas market filled with artisan vendors, festive treats and holiday finds.

The setting is part of the appeal. SteelStacks occupies the former Bethlehem Steel site, where the hulking industrial landscape has been reimagined as a 10-acre center for arts, culture, music and community events. Against that backdrop, the market’s handmade decorations, distinctive gifts, toys, sweaters and artisan-crafted dinnerware feel especially at home; the contemporary celebrations unfold amid the remnants of the region’s industrial past. It’s an opportunity to browse for something more personal than the usual holiday fare, sample seasonal goodies and soak up the atmosphere of the holidays.

Categories: From the Magazine, The 412, Things To Do, Travel