PHOTO BY HUCK BEARD

Inside the Bayernhof Museum, you’ll find a remarkable collection of antique music machines — self-playing creations that pump out beautiful, booming sounds you’re unlikely to hear anywhere else.

The house itself is even better.

The 19,000-square-foot museum in O’Hara was the home of Charles B. Brown III, an eccentric dreamer who made a fortune in the gas lamp industry. Brown set out to build a sprawling, surprising home overlooking the Allegheny River, creating a one-of-a-kind space full of unexpected passageways, inside jokes and innumerable creature comforts — all without the aid of blueprints.

@pittsburghmagazine The Bayernhof Museum is known the world over for its collection of antique music machines. The house itself might be even more impressive. #pennsylvania #pittsburgh #bayernhof ♬ original sound – Pittsburgh Magazine

To visit, you’ll have to plan ahead; tour reservations are only available by leaving a voicemail (412-782-4231) and waiting for a call back confirming availability. Tours are offered daily at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., although a capacity of 12 means spots fill up quickly. When you arrive and pay a modest $10 (cash only) per person, you’ll be led into a sitting room with breathtaking views to hear about Brown’s life and pursuit of architectural bliss.

PHOTO BY HUCK BEARD

Most days, Jim Mousseau leads the tours, relaying tales — tall and otherwise — from Brown’s life, giving a performance as passionate as if he were treading the boards on Broadway. (He even sings.) He’ll lead you from room to room, demonstrating antique music machines and pointing out the hidden features that make the Bayernhof much more than a collection of curiosities.

PHOTO BY HUCK BEARD

The two-and-a-half hour tour will wind erratically through the building, from the rooftop observatory to the basement, where … well, we won’t spoil it. (Watch your head.)

The collection of music machines truly is remarkable, including some creations that are among the best remaining examples of their style. Some are the size of rooms, producing a sound that could fill a fairground; others are small and delicate, including a faux birdcage containing artificial songbirds that chirp like the real thing.

PHOTO BY HUCK BEARD

When you relay the story of the Bayernhof later, though, you’ll likely forget to mention the majestic machines, at least at first. Instead, you’ll find yourself rattling off Brown’s quirks and exploits and describing the details in the house — all those wet bars! All those hidden passageways! And then, that last reveal, where Mousseau opens a door to unveil …

Nope, not going to spoil it.

Insider’s Tip: Going for the first time? This is one occasion on which you shouldn’t do your research. Make sure you know where to go, where to park and what time to arrive — but skip the website or online reviews. The revelations you’ll experience as the tour meanders through the sprawling house are too good to spoil.

While You’re Here: Brown had an affinity for all things German — including the cuisine. You’ll likely find yourself walking out with a craving for sausage and beer. Head back downriver to the North Shore after your visit and grab lunch at either Penn Brewery or Max’s Allegheny Tavern.