THE KOOLWINK MOTEL | PHOTO BY SEAN COLLIER

The Koolwink Motel is perfectly maintained. Everything works; everything is clean. You’d think the fixtures and decor were installed yesterday.

If yesterday was about half a century ago.

Opened in 1936 as a “tourist home,” as the website puts it, the Koolwink has been a family business for three generations, updated into its current look in the 1950s and ’60s. While the staff prides themselves on maintenance and cleanliness, the “retro feel” is meticulously preserved, from the thick carpet and wood paneling inside each room to the old-school, green-and-yellow lawn chairs outside each door — and the brown plastic air conditioner embedded in each wall. (A fixture that, like all the others, is in perfect working order.)

You’ll find mascot Mr. Koolwink, one eye open underneath his top hat, on everything from the lampposts to the notepads, but that branding is as close as this place gets to modern sensibilities. The simple layout of each room invites you to blissfully waste away the evening, perhaps chatting on the patio or lazily watching a movie in bed. (Nothing good on television? They’ll lend you a DVD player and your choice of classic films, free of charge, when you check in.)

MR. KOOLWINK, THE KOOLWINK MOTEL’S MASCOT | PHOTO BY SEAN COLLIER

For those who traveled in the days before affordable hotels became homogenized, it’ll bring back memories; for those too young to remember such curious roadside stops, it’s a brand new (and lovely) experience.

There’s more to Romney, however, than a charming motel. Equally essential is the Potomac Eagle, a scenic railroad excursion that stretches along the south branch of the Potomac River. The train, which features historical rail coaches dating back to the 1920s; dining cars date to the ’40s and ’50s. You’ll climb aboard and settle in for a three-hour tour of soothing, pastoral vistas.

THE POTOMAC EAGLE | PHOTO BY SEAN COLLIER

As you ride in comfort, enjoying a glass of lemonade, you’ll peer out the window at rolling fields, meandering deer and mountains in the distance. When you make it into the trough — a secluded canyon habitat easily accessible only by this train — tour guides will point out a series of eagle nests, with majestic bald eagles sitting calmly on forking pine branches.

You’ll also enjoy much more than lemonade. An on-train kitchen prepares fresh meals on each trip; different cars feature different menus, from lunchbox-style meals through the four-course “superior dining” offering that features steak and seafood. The food is excellent and often surprising — hope that they’re serving the bacon-wrapped carrots on the day you ride.

You’ll also get a good deal of history aboard the Potomac Eagle, as tour guide Jean Shoemaker, a local historian and former teacher, takes you through centuries of local lore. Her narration, amplified throughout the train, will clue you in on the history of Romney, which claims to be the oldest town in West Virginia — another was founded on the same day, but Romney has the lower charter number, so they take the crown — and was a much-disputed strategic location during the Civil War, changing hands 56 times during the conflict (including, on one occasion, three times in the same day).

That long history gives the small town a timelessness that goes beyond the antique rail cars and retro motel. You’ll notice a surfeit of classic cars as you drive around — all in working order, of course — and a historic marker on every corner. Even newer constructions like the Main Street Grill, an inviting sports bar, have an eye on the past; the facade of the restaurant is constructed to look like a small-town street, and an old-fashioned soda shop takes up more room than the main bar.

Romney could well serve as a stopping point en route to Washington, D.C., or the Carolinas; it’s less than 3 hours from Pittsburgh, about halfway to the District via this route. As nice a resting place as the town is, though, Romney deserves to be its own destination. Few weekends would be more soothing than one featuring idle hours at the Koolwink, a leisurely (and delicious) ride aboard the Potomac Eagle and maybe a long drive in the country.

It’s a trip rooted in the past, and one that can make for a relaxing present.

Where to Stay

It should go without saying: Stay at the Koolwink Motel. There are other hotels and motels nearby, but if you can’t get a room at the Koolwink, reschedule your trip for a time when you can.

Where to Eat

Romney wakes up and eats well, with two excellent options for breakfast in the heart of town. At Wild Roots Cafe & Company, you’ll find an array of tempting and filling sandwiches for both breakfast and lunch. For breakfast, opt for the “Build Your Own Biscuit” and choose your cheese and meat of choice, served between a tasty, southern-style biscuit. The coffee is excellent, and the pastries are filling; plan to visit more than once, as your eyes will be much bigger than your stomach.

Across the street, the veteran-owned Romney Brew Station offers indulgent treats and healthy options alike; they also stay open until 6 p.m, while Wild Roots closes at 2. Once you’ve retired to your room at the Koolwink, order in; The Italian Touch will bring pizza, hoagies and pub-style snacks right to your room. Just remember to leave room for more food if you’re riding the Potomac Eagle.

When to Go

The Koolwink is open year-round; the Potomac Eagle offers trips from April through December. If you’re looking for a specific reason to plan your trip, you can visit during one of the major annual festivals; Hampshire County hosts its peach-themed Summer Harvest Festival each August, while neighboring Burlington throws an Apple Harvest Festival each October. You can also wait until the holidays to meet Santa aboard the Potomac Eagle; he’ll stroll the aisles of the train handing out presents to young riders.