Edit ModuleEdit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

Hungry For Something Good, Pittsburgh? Where We're Eating in August

We're sampling cheese at Wheel & Wedge, meeting the new Smallman Galley chefs and enjoying Indian cuisine at Yuva Kitchen + Bar. Plus, we chat with Cure and Morcilla's Brian Wiltrout.




photos by erin kelly
 

Cheezing It: Wheel & Wedge
Much like a well-aged cheddar, Wheel & Wedge has blossomed as it has developed over the years. What started as a Pennsylvania-focused cheese-stand in the Farmers’ Market Cooperative of East Liberty and then the Pittsburgh Public Market now is a fully fledged cheese shop in Lawrenceville. The locally made cheeses such as Goat Rodeo Dairy and Riverview Dairy are still featured but now share case space with bloomy, semi-soft, hard and blue cheeses produced throughout the United States. Bonus: among the curated selection of Pittsburgh-made accoutrements is Thin Man Sandwich Shop’s chicken-liver mousse; Wheel & Wedge is the only place outside the Strip District where you’ll find it.
Lawrenceville: 3337 Penn Ave.; wheelandwedge.com



​Smallman Galley

The Strip District restaurant incubator welcomed its second cohort of chef/owners in June: Jesse Barlass brings pan-Latin food to the city with his concept Colonia; Hoa Le digs into her Vietnamese roots with Banhmilicious; Ryan Peters, a talented, 23-year-old chef, shows his fine-dining pedigree at brunoise; and Pete Tolman introduces Pittsburgh to crazy-good Detroit-style pizza at Iron Born. The bar program remains whimsical, taking on a “Sandlot” theme for the summer.
Strip District: 54 21st St.; 412/281-0949, smallmangalley.org

Turkish Kebab House
I love having a casual lunch at Turkish Kebab House in Squirrel Hill. The Mediterranean restaurant specializes in flavorful kebabs (bet you didn’t get that from its name) such as shish, adana, chicken and chicken adana. There also are tasty gyros, vegetarian dishes such as moussaka and lentil soup, plus larger grilled items such as whole fish and lamb chops.
Squirrel Hill: 5819 Forbes Ave.; 412/422-4100
 



Photo by hal b. Klein
 

How Lee
I probably crave Sichuan cuisine more than I do any other category of food. Ma-la — a spicy, numbing blend of Sichuan peppercorns, hot peppers and other ingredients — is an additive component to many of the dishes at How Lee such as mapo tofu and braised beef tendon. Some of my other favorites include Chongqing fried dry-hot chicken and shredded potato with green chili peppers. A recent design refresh makes for a breezy, comfortable dining experience.
Squirrel Hill: 5888 Forbes Ave.; 412/422-1888

Le Lyonnais
Yves Carreau, owner of the Big Y Group (Nola on the Square, Poros, Seviche, Perlé) in April rebranded his Sonoma Grille concept as Le Lyonnais, a French-country bistro concept. He also returned to the kitchen to oversee the transformation of the Downtown space. Diners can expect dishes such as cassoulet, beef bourguignon and croque monsieur. The restaurant is off to a good start — but also could continue to push forward and trust that diners don’t need their hands held.
Downtown: 947 Penn Ave.; 412/697-1336, lelyonnaispgh.com


photo by erin kelly
 

Yuva Indian Kitchen + Bar
Yuva Indian Kitchen + Bar takes a refreshing turn from the all-you-can-eat buffets typically found in local Indian restaurants with a menu of freshly cooked items. Lunch specials, which include a main item plus rice, salad and naan for $9.99 to $10.99, offer a quick and affordable way to start exploring the menu. The expanded dinner menu includes curries, tandoori-cooked dishes, biryani and thali.
Oakland: 412 S. Craig St.; 412/681-5700, yuvakitchen.com)



 

Brian ‘Trout’ Wiltrout
Cure / Morcilla | Charcuterie-Maker / Butcher

​Wiltrout’s first serious cooking job was at Eleven Contemporary Kitchen. He followed Justin Severino to Elements, where he was sous chef and later was on the opening team at Cure. Wiltrout also worked as a sous chef at Legume Bistro, spent some time as a farmer and then rejoined Severino’s team in December 2015. He now manages the Cure and Morcilla charcuterie program as well as doing butchery and daytime prep at Morcilla.

What was your learning curve for charcuterie making?
It was pretty steep. Justin (Severino) has a long background in butchery, but I don’t. I pretty much learned everything from him on-and-off for the past eight years. We had a charcuterie program at Elements, which is where I first started to help make it. Nate Hobart (Morcilla chef de cuisine) also has been instrumental. In the years that I didn’t work for Justin, this was Nate’s deal. I feel like it’s something that came somewhat naturally to me though. It helps to really enjoy doing what you’re doing, even if you don’t know exactly how to do it.

What are some tips to making high-quality charcuterie?
Take your time. Pay attention to details. A lot of things in high-volume kitchens are about cranking out product as fast as you can; it’s the opposite when you’re making charcuterie. You have to work clean, in a logical manner and make sure that your flavor profile is going to come through. A slight change in the weight of something can change the flavor end-product a lot. You might not taste the final result for a year, so you have to take good notes all through the process.

What’s special about your charcuterie?
We don’t work with mold in the room, which is something almost everyone else does. It’s not that products made with mold aren’t tasty, but that flavor is always going to be part of the product. We want the ingredients to shine through all the way to the end. So we don’t make giant salamis, which need mold for them to work, and we lard our muscle meats pretty aggressively. It’s all about clean flavors for us.
 

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit Module

Edit Module Edit ModuleShow TagsEdit ModuleShow Tags
Edit Module Edit ModuleShow Tags

The Latest

PM on KD: The Turkey Devonshire

PM Associate Editor and dining critic Hal B. Klein appeared on KDKA's Pittsburgh Today Live to discuss his new sandwich obsession, the Turkey Devonshire, and how it ended up on our February cover.

You Try It, Being a Meteorologist In Pittsburgh Isn't Easy

Aside from a Steelers loss, nothing seems to fire up Pittsburghers more than a blown weather forecast.

Our 50 Years: Why I Hate Nostalgia

Enjoying memories is fun – but a far cry from pining for the past.

Perspectives: Finding Grace in #MomLife

A Pittsburgh television reporter learns to embrace the imperfection that comes with being a working mom.

The 400-Word Review: Pledge

IFC Midnight's collegiate terror tale is mostly for genre fans, but it lands a few decent punches.

Capel’s Basketball Resurrection Has the Zoo Rocking Again

Head coach Jeff Capel is restoring respectability and re-establishing the relationship between Pitt’s students and Pitt’s student athletes.

Why Did No One Tell Me Cirque du Soleil is Awesome

A skeptical novice takes in the troupe's "Corteo" production and is stunned at his own delight.

Three Rivers Champion: Julius Boatwright

Boatwright works to connect everyone who needs it with mental health support.

Turkey Devonshire: Reviving a Classic Pittsburgh Sandwich

The once-famous sandwich originated here but now is largely forgotten. We dive into its history and argue that it's time for a revival.

Navigating the Future of Public Transit in Pittsburgh

Six Pittsburghers share their struggles and hopes for the region’s public transit system.

Why Jamison Farm Is a “A Napa Valley for Sheep”

How a former coal miner and his wife use the resources atop rolling Westmoreland County hills to produce the best lamb in the United States.

Pittsburgh Restaurant Review: Fish nor Fowl

The sixth standalone concept from the Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group, is DeShantz’s most exciting restaurant yet.

Our 50 Years: When We Tried to Predict the Future

25 years ago, we predicted what the Pittsburgh of 2019 would look like. We were ... close?

Help Pay Tribute to a Pittsburgh Jazz Legend

Mary Lou Williams began as a teenage piano prodigy in the Hill District and made it to Carnegie Hall and beyond. This month, you can discover her musical legacy.

Their's was a Starry-Eyed Pittsburgh Romance

John Brashear dedicated his life to science — and his wife, Phoebe.
Edit Module
Edit ModuleShow Tags


You Try It, Being a Meteorologist In Pittsburgh Isn't Easy

You Try It, Being a Meteorologist In Pittsburgh Isn't Easy

Aside from a Steelers loss, nothing seems to fire up Pittsburghers more than a blown weather forecast.

Comments

Our 50 Years: Why I Hate Nostalgia

Our 50 Years: Why I Hate Nostalgia

Enjoying memories is fun – but a far cry from pining for the past.

Comments


All the foodie news that's fit to blog
Fresh Fest Beerfest Is Set to Return to Pittsburgh

Fresh Fest Beerfest Is Set to Return to Pittsburgh

The country's first black brewfest looks to double in size this year.

Comments

Pittsburgh Chef Moves: Csilla Thackray Headed to Legume Bistro

Pittsburgh Chef Moves: Csilla Thackray Headed to Legume Bistro

Thackray's departure from The Vandal will result in a new menu at that Lawrenceville restaurant.

Comments


Not just good stuff. Great stuff.
Fitness: Five Great Trails to Run in the Fall in Pittsburgh

Fitness: Five Great Trails to Run in the Fall in Pittsburgh

Don’t resign yourself to the gym treadmills just yet – fall is one of the best times of the year to get outside and pound the pavement, surrounded by falling leaves and the possibility of grabbing a hot latte on the way home.

Comments

Love Sourdough? Find the Best There Is at These Five Bake Shops

Love Sourdough? Find the Best There Is at These Five Bake Shops

We dove into the local artisan bread scene to find the best places that bake naturally leavened bread in Pittsburgh.

Comments


Why Did No One Tell Me Cirque du Soleil is Awesome

Why Did No One Tell Me Cirque du Soleil is Awesome

A skeptical novice takes in the troupe's "Corteo" production and is stunned at his own delight.

Comments

My New Neighborhood Bar is The Birmingham Bridge Tavern

My New Neighborhood Bar is The Birmingham Bridge Tavern

After settling into a new neighborhood, PM nightlife editor Sean Collier sings the praises of his go-to corner bar.

Comments


Mike Prisuta's Sports Section

A weekly look at the games people are playing and the people who are playing them.
Capel’s Basketball Resurrection Has the Zoo Rocking Again

Capel’s Basketball Resurrection Has the Zoo Rocking Again

Head coach Jeff Capel is restoring respectability and re-establishing the relationship between Pitt’s students and Pitt’s student athletes.

Comments

Steelers' Organization Shares Blame for Brown Debacle

Steelers' Organization Shares Blame for Brown Debacle

For years now, the Steelers have been working around Brown’s maladaptive tendencies from Monday through Saturday and throwing him the ball on Sunday and hoping for the best.

Comments


The movies that are playing in Pittsburgh –– and, more importantly, whether or not they're worth your time.
The 400-Word Review: Pledge

The 400-Word Review: Pledge

IFC Midnight's collegiate terror tale is mostly for genre fans, but it lands a few decent punches.

Comments

The 400-Word Review: Glass

The 400-Word Review: Glass

M. Night Shyamalan's crossover film lands with a splat, as the filmmaker once again can't resist his worst impulses.

Comments


Everything you need to know about getting married in Pittsburgh today.
Pop Culture Touches Made These Weddings Extra Special

Pop Culture Touches Made These Weddings Extra Special

Whether you love all things Disney, “Game of Thrones” or “Star Wars,” there are lots of ways to add some personal — and fun — details into your wedding day.

Comments

It’s a Hockey Wedding in Pittsburgh

It’s a Hockey Wedding in Pittsburgh

This Pittsburgh couple was brought together by their love of hockey — and what better way to celebrate their New Year’s Eve wedding than with an outdoor game?

Comments


Weekly inspiration for your home from the editors of Pittsburgh Magazine
Up for Auction: Luxury 200-Acre Ligonier Estate Owned by Former EDMC Exec

Up for Auction: Luxury 200-Acre Ligonier Estate Owned by Former EDMC Exec

Woodmere is one of four high-end properties owned by Robert Knutson scheduled to hit the auction block this week.

Comments

The Top Five HOME Stories of 2018

The Top Five HOME Stories of 2018

Take a look back at the biggest stories to come out of Pittsburgh’s home and design industry.

Comments