25 Best Restaurants

It's a great pleasure to share with you our annual BEST RESTAURANTS issue in a year that-despite being a tough economy and an unforgettable snowpocalypse-made our region's dining scene more vibrant than ever before.

Photos by Laura Petrilla

Experienced restaurant owners report having an easier time sourcing top-notch ingredients because demand is up (a change from years past when they had to drive out to the airport to pick up items such as specialty cheese). Local chefs, delighted with the growing number of independent chef-driven restaurants, say they’re especially inspired by their hard-working peers.

All of this means that our “Best 25” list offers plenty to chew on. As such former stalwarts as Lautrec at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort or Le Pommier on the South Side were suspended from the list because of chef departures, newly opened restaurants burst into the winners’ circle. These include Tamari, winner of our “Best New Restaurant” award, and Avenue B, whose chef-owner Chris Bonfili earned our nod for “Rising Star Chef.” And at two-year-old restaurant Mio, chef-owner Matthew Porco won our “Chef of the Year” award.

As always, the “Best 25” winners are selected based on the anonymous dining experiences of Pittsburgh Magazine’s Restaurant Review Panel and annual secret balloting. This year we’ve added more detailed reporting to each of our 25 reviews, including specific dishes we loved eating during the last 12 months as a means of portraying the strengths of each particular kitchen. We hope you find this new and expanded coverage as inspiring as it is helpful.

Bon appétit!

(Restaurants serve alcohol unless BYOB is noted.)

The price range indicated under each restaurant listing is based on the average price of entrée as follows:

$ $10-$15
$$ $15-$25
$$$ $25-$35
$$$$ $35 and up

* indicates a restaurant new to our listing.

AMERICAN

avenue b *

Chris Bonfili, winner of this year’s “Rising Star Chef” award, opened this charming bistro with his wife, Jenn, last November. The menu’s freshness comes in part from presentation—each day, new dishes go up on big wall-mounted chalkboards. This is where we found the dishes we loved best, from perfectly creamy cauliflower bisque or Prince Edward Island mussels in steaming, garlicky tomato broth to meltingly tender day-boat scallops.

There’s also a short, printed menu with starters, mains and desserts (try the trio of homemade ice creams to finish). Attention to detail, from the French-press coffee delivered with timers to the consistently friendly, knowledgeable service, makes Avenue B a happy new addition to the area’s dining scene.

Chef/Owner Chris Bonfili
5501 Centre Ave., Shadyside
412/683-3663
avenueb-pgh.com
$$ (BYOB)

AMERICAN

bona terra

This is the second year that Douglass Dick is a semi-finalist for the James Beard Award for “Best Chef” in the mid-Atlantic region—needless to say, he deserves it. His daily-changing menu presents consistently stunning food, and his unique willingness to cook off the menu for tables requesting one of his six- and nine-course dinners (weeknights preferred for this option) shows off his talent and confidence.

We loved dishes such as the potato-chive gnocchi, which might be served with braised beef Bolognese and served with rich caramelized onions and duck-leg confit sauce or even with local kielbasa complemented by sauerkraut and apples. His way with scallops is memorable, whether the dish comes with blood-orange reduction and braised kale or with an apple-bacon-sage demi-glace.

The dining room is BYOB with decor that’s strictly no-frills, but you’ll still want to call a few weeks in advance for a weekend table.

Executive Chef and Owner Douglass Dick
908 Main St., Sharpsburg
412/781-8210
bonaterrapgh.com
$$ (BYOB)

MEDITERRANEAN

Casbah

Drawing inspiration from all over the Mediterranean but sourcing many ingredients from just miles away, new executive chef Eli Wahl is making his mark at this East End standby. Starters including the sumac-crusted sea scallops with baba ghanoush and preserved lemon oil will jump-start your palate; among the main courses, we loved the signature double-cut pork chop, Elysian Fields Farm lamb shank and tender fennel risotto with morel mushrooms.

The dining room is sophisticated with beautiful lighting, and the cozy cocktail lounge actually invites lounging; the breezy, tented patio is a great spot to share an artisan cheese plate and a bottle of vino from the well-selected list.

To do some good while you dine, check the Web site for more about the monthly benefit dinners for various city organizations.

Executive Chef Eli Wahl
229 S. Highland Ave., Shadyside
412/661-5656
bigburrito.com/casbah
$$$-$$$$

AMERICAN

cross keys inn *

This former hotel and restaurant built in 1850 was restored in beautiful English country style last year by the Uricchio brothers, formerly of Highland Park’s Laforêt restaurant, and won this year's “Delicious Design” award. Michael Uricchio, with the help of head chef Lia Davidson-Welling, shows his passion for quality ingredients above all, and everything from breads and stocks to desserts is made in-house.

We loved such starters as the crispy hand-rolled duck spring roll and such mains as the pan-roasted Chilean sea bass with ginger, lemongrass, shiitake mushrooms and rice noodles; for a casual supper, there’s a bar menu featuring great burgers with pommes frites or wood-fired pizzas. The list of international wines hand-picked for quality and value by Robert only adds to the appeal.

Co-owners Robert Uricchio and Michael Uricchio
599 Dorseyville Road, Indiana Township
412/967-1900
crosskeysinnpgh.com
$$

PIZZA

Dinette

Minimalist and innovative are especially apt adjectives for Dinette, which specializes in fine thin-crust pizza and wine. Sonja Finn, a 2010 James Beard Foundation semi-finalist for “Rising Star Chef of the Year,” changes her short menu every day but always offers several starters, including two or three stellar salads and eight unique pizzas.

We enjoyed starters such as the fritto misto and the elegant grilled romaine; ditto for the 12-inch, crispy thin-crust pizzas, such as one with chorizo, Yukon Gold potatoes, Castelvetrano olives and fresh mozzarella or one with fresh, tender baby lettuce.

Refreshingly, all 20-plus wines on the list are available by the bottle or by the glass; for dessert, there’s a decadent chocolate pot de crème among other choices. The airy one-room dining space features an open kitchen and bar and sustainable architecture.

Chef and Owner Sonja Finn
5996 Penn Circle South, East Liberty
412/362-0202
dinette-pgh.com
$$

best new restaurant

tamari

Add one Asian-meets-Latin menu with two restaurant pros—Tamari owner Allen Chen and executive chef Roger Li—and it equals exactly what this region needed: a lively new restaurant that brings something entirely new to the dining scene. Asian flavors and traditional preparations like sushi predominate on the menu, but the presentation is Latin, with a big selection of tapas-style plates.

Chen grew up in the local restaurant biz—his father started all the Sushi Too and China Palace restaurants in the region—but hit on the restaurant’s concept after falling in love with the cooking culture and street food of Mexico during time in San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, where he met his wife.

Chen hit the jackpot in meeting chef Li, who moved to Pittsburgh from Philadelphia in 2005 to open a restaurant on the North Shore that’s now closed. Li’s strength is fusion cuisine, the result of growing up with a family that ran a Chinese restaurant and then working in a variety of restaurants from sushi to French to contemporary American.

That he loves working with fresh fish is clear from the menu’s many seafood-centric small plates, including nigiri, sashimi and ceviche. Classic Latin ingredients (chipotle, cilantro and fresh lime) are as evident as Asian ones like miso, yuzu and edamame.
Dozen Bake Shop, located next door, provides the restaurant’s desserts, such as a delicious green-tea coconut cake.

If the flavors at Tamari wake you up, so will the setting. The clean, contemporary two-floor space, designed by local firm Fukui Architects, includes counter seating by the lively open kitchen and an inviting bar. Given the crowds, there’s not always a whole lot of elbow room, but then, that’s just part of what makes a “Best New Restaurant.” —Kate Chynoweth

Owner Allen Chen and Executive Chef Roger Li
3519 Butler St., Lawrenceville
412/325-3435
tamaripgh.com

ITALIAN

dish osteria and bar

For rustic Italian food, a late-night kitchen (open until midnight), great cocktails and a fun South Side location, you can’t beat this spot favored by hipsters and well-heeled older couples alike. We couldn’t do without some of the standbys from the brief, printed menu—grilled calamari with sautéed spinach, Sicilian orange and fennel salad or wild-mushroom pasta.

The daily specials, which account for about 50 percent of the dishes each day, are equally reliable, from a homemade potato gnocchi with cream sauce spiked with taleggio, gorgonzola, fontina and Reggiano, to pan-seared sea scallops with roasted beets. Adjacent to the intimate dining room is the handsome bar, a charming-if-busy spot to wait if you neglected to call ahead for a table.

Chef Michele Savoia
128 S. 17th St., South Side
412/390-2012
dishosteria.com
$$-$$$

AMERICAN

Eleven

Six years have allowed Eleven to find its stride, so this urbane Strip District restaurant has seized the opportunity to perfect its details, from its well-polished service and sleek bar area down to the dot of white anchovy atop its crispy brussels sprouts. Time and time again, chef Derek Stevens delivers fresh, well-executed contemporary American fare with just enough intrigue—we loved the smoked-lamb taco with goat cheese, tomatillo salsa and refried lentils—to delight new diners and ensure that fans return to see what else is in store.

In addition to its reformatted lunch and dinner menus, the restaurant also offers baked goods and house-made chocolates for pick-up and has introduced an unfussy tavern menu, which gives an upgrade to casual classics. It’s easy to fall for these soft pretzels, Angus beef burgers, New York strip steaks and, yes, even hot dogs, considering that they maintain the same meticulous standards as every other dish from this kitchen.

Executive Chef Derek Stevens
1150 Smallman St., Strip District
412/201-5656
bigburrito.com/eleven
$$$-$$$$

PIZZA

il pizzaiolo

A passion for thin-crust Neapolitan pizza is this spot’s specialty, but recent menu expansions have turned this appealing restaurant into even more of a destination. If you’re sticking with pies, you can’t go wrong with the sublimely simple margherita—the wood-fired oven from Italy cooks each pizza in a hot minute, and there’s even a temperature-controlled room for making dough.

Beyond pizza and the tender handmade pasta, recent menu additions include steamed mussels, creative risottos and other seafood- and meat-focused main courses.

We love pulling up a seat in the cozy wine bar (which has a separate entrance), although the main room with exposed brick and Tuscan tiles and the charming outdoor patio are also great spots to dine.

Head Chef Richard Sphatt
703 Washington Road, Mount Lebanon
412/344-4123
$$
 

chef of the year

matthew porco

Part of what makes a great chef is having confidence in your vision, and Matthew Porco, executive chef and owner of Mio Kitchen and Wine Bar, has that in spades.

“My philosophy is to develop recipes and menu concepts that create continuity,” he says. “In general, cooks are artistic to some degree, but we’re also very methodical, which is why I want ingredients on the line to be in the same exact order every day. Inconsistency comes with things changing around too much.”

Porco, a self-described protein lover, is passionate about correctly preparing meat—whether it’s leaving short ribs or Amish chicken on the bone after cooking to bring out the best flavor or making sure duck is cooked until the skin is perfectly crispy. In keeping with his initial plan to create a wine-driven restaurant, these and other dishes—rich in flavor but without a surplus of overpowering ingredients—easily pair with wine.

Offering about 170 bottles and 20 to 25 wines by the glass, Mio is a great spot for experimental sipping, and the staff is knowledgeable and encourages creative pairings. Porco’s days are filled not just with cooking but also sourcing the best ingredients possible, whether from Penn’s Corner Farm Alliance or from a friend from high school (Porco grew up in Aspinwall) who’s now growing organic vegetables and herbs specifically for the restaurant.

His partnership with local pastry chef Barbara Ferguson has yielded a terrific dessert menu, which dovetails with the menu’s sensibility in such dishes as a brownie sundae with salted caramel ice cream, banana sorbet, hot-fudge sauce and glazed peanuts.

Ever ambitious, Porco has spent part of this year developing a new concept for an old-school New York-style pizzeria (takeout and delivery only); it’s scheduled to open this month just a stone’s throw from his restaurant. Ultimately, Porco says his goal in having a restaurant is simple: “I want people to look at the menu and have their eyes get big because so many things look good—and then come back again and again because they taste as good as they look,” he says. Our vote says “mission accomplished.” —Kate Chynoweth

Mio Kitchen & Wine Bar
225 Commercial Ave., Aspinwall
412/781-3141
mio-pgh.com

ECLECTIC

iovino’s café

Seafood is a specialty at this Mount Lebanon neighborhood favorite, where the menu is printed several times a week to reflect what’s fresh. Starters of house-made mozzarella, crispy calamari tossed in sweet soy sambal and tempura tuna maki reflect Mediterranean and Asian influences.

So do the stunning main courses, including grilled bronzini with white beans, pepper-crusted tuna with sesame-miso gnocchi in addition to one of our favorites: locally made torcia pasta, featuring a pile of veggies with sherry, marinara and shaved parmesan.

In the four years since opening, the restaurant has been BYOB, but now has a pending liquor license, which could bring a remodel and a new bar to the bright, casual dining room this summer.

Chef and Owner Jeff Iovino
300A Beverly Road, Mount Lebanon
412/440-0414
iovinoscafe.com
$$-$$$ (BYOB)

ITALIAN

joseph tambellini restaurant *

Traditional Italian favorites are the specialty at this white-tablecloth restaurant co-owned by chef Joseph Tambellini and wife, Melissa. We loved the crispy fried shrimp breaded with panko and served with lemon and cocktail sauce; the homemade meatballs were another favorite, served in either a meatball-parmesan sauce with aged provolone or as a topping for such house-made pastas as tagliolini, mafalda or trenne.

The chef’s four to six daily specials are often based on old family recipes. (Starting at age 12, Joseph worked downtown at his father’s place, Robert Tambellini Restaurant, which was open from 1965 to 1991). Each entrée comes with seasonally inspired salad and a second pasta course, which changes daily. The wine list has a focus on Italian and Californian varietals.

Chef and Owner Joseph Tambellini
5701 Bryant St., Highland Park
412/665-9000
josephtambellini.com
$$$

LATIN/CARIBBEAN

kaya

For more than a decade, Pittsburghers have flocked to this funky, bright tiki-esque spot in the Strip District for tropas and entradas (appetizers and entrées) inspired by the tropics. With its lively bar, casual seating and island-themed soundtrack, Kaya is a place where it feels right to order rounds of spicy small plates: Heat things up with lentil and corn beignets with green curry sauce, and cool off with a round of excellent mojitos.

If you’re looking for larger plates, entrées like pan-seared barramundi with red rice, chickpeas, carrots, aioli and tomato-caper chutney satisfy with just enough heat. To finish, try a flavorful Mexican chocolate torte garnished with spiced pecans and chipotle ice cream.

Executive Chef Sean Ehland
2000 Smallman St., Strip District;
412/261-6565
bigburrito.com/kaya
$$$

rising star

chef chris bonfili

At Avenue B, chef and owner Chris Bonfili has found every ingredient for inspirational cooking since opening this new bistro with wife, Jenn, last November. First among these, he says, is the creative freedom to change his menu every day. Then there’s his renewed energy for cooking: 18 months away from a professional kitchen (he formerly was the longtime chef at the now-defunct Red Room) left Chris hungry to get into a place of his own and create something special.

The Pittsburgh native’s background includes a stint at culinary school and time in kitchens from Colorado to Maryland—in restaurants that ranged from mom-and-pop and brew pub to Asian to contemporary American. All this experience goes into his cooking, which falls under the header “American” but finds influences around the globe. “People think a style of cooking is something you can pinpoint, but I’ve been cooking professionally for 16 years, and every day of my experience goes into it,” he says.

Large wall-mounted chalkboards, which account for about 60 percent of the menu, showcase new dishes each day, giving Bonfili the chance to shop in the morning and use ingredients in dishes that same night. Successful starters range from a deconstructed spring roll topped with pulled pork to grilled-fennel soup with crab; mains might be perfectly done pork chops, pan-seared day-boat scallops, sweet-potato enchiladas or grilled shrimp and grits.

Desserts have an American spin, from chewy butterscotch blondies to creative flavors of house-made ice cream.

With reasonable menu pricing and $5 corkage, Bonfili is making good on the vision he shared with Jenn in opening the restaurant (she manages and works the front of the house after previous stints at Red Room and Six Penn Kitchen): It’s a place where they, a hard-working couple with two young kids, could afford to eat out a couple of nights a week. As we all know, every neighborhood in town could use a restaurant exactly like that. —Kate Chynoweth

Avenue B
5501 Centre Ave., Shadyside
412/683-3663
avenueb-pgh.com

AMERICAN

legume bistro

It’s just 14 small tables packed elbow-to-elbow, but the flavors at this Regent Square bistro get bigger all the time. Trevett Hooper continues his quest to source the best-quality ingredients, make just about everything in-house—from charcuterie to pickles and preserves—and create memorable bistro food.

That we loved main courses, including white halibut with Carolina Gold rice grits and Maine shrimp, isn’t surprising: Recently, Hooper put new emphasis on bringing in small amounts of super-fresh fish that’s shipped directly from where it was caught. Few things stay on the daily-changing menu, but the dishes that do, including chicken cooked under a skillet with mashed potatoes or the chocolate-truffle cake, are always good bets.

Sign up for the chef’s excellent “Notes From the Kitchen” weekly update at the restaurant’s website.

Executive Chef/Owner Trevett Hooper
1113 S. Braddock Ave., Regent Square
412/371-1815
legumebistro.com
$$-$$$ (BYOB)

AMERICAN

mio kitchen & wine bar

Matthew Porco, our “Chef of the Year” award winner creates memorable comfort food at his wine-driven restaurant. The dishes we loved—Caesar salad with fried egg and prosciutto, sausage ravioli with mushroom ragoût, crispy skate wing with braised Belgian endive and decadent short ribs—showcase Porco’s knack for creating rich, concentrated flavors.

The wine list of about 170 bottles and 20 to 25 wines by the glass leaves plenty of room for experimentation, and the knowledgeable staff offers helpful guidance. Winning desserts are from wonderful pastry chef Barbara Ferguson.

The main dining area, with its beautiful lighting and banquettes, is on the upscale side of upscale-casual; another appealing spot to dine is the handsome bar. Check the website for details on the three-course prix fixe menu, which runs Tuesday through Thursday.

Owner and Executive Chef Matthew Porco
225 Commercial Ave., Aspinwall
412/781-3141
mio-pgh.com
$$$

AMERICAN

nine on nine

The ambitious menu and chic decor make this one of our favorite spots for dinner downtown. With a sharp focus on top-notch ingredients, the kitchen captures flavors from Asia to the Mediterranean.

We fell in love with dishes like the signature risotto with wild mushrooms and truffles laced with porcini oil, and a king trumpet-mushroom salad with avocado, bok choy and kicky miso-chile vinaigrette. Among the more memorable entrées were an Amish chicken with apple bread pudding, bacon sweet potatoes and French-bean casserole; and prime strip steak with mushroom pot stickers, baby bok choy, miso caramel and tempura mushrooms. To finish, try the cheese plate or carrot cake with cream cheese, orange caramel and brown-butter ice cream.

Appealing dining choices include the six-course chef’s tasting menu (until 9 p.m.), the three-course theater menu (until 7 p.m.), the weekday lunch menu or cocktails and small plates in the comfortable lounge.

Executive Chef Richard DeShantz
900 Penn Ave., downtown
412/338-6463
nineonnine.com
$$$-$$$$

delicious design

cross keys inn

Tucked between the rolling hills and winding roads along Dorseyville Road in Indiana Township, the building that now is the Cross Keys Inn was constructed in 1850 as a stagecoach inn for travelers before becoming a speakeasy in the 1930s until it housed various bars and restaurants throughout the remainder of the century.

Then in 2008, brothers Michael and Robert Uricchio, formerly of Laforêt restaurant in Highland Park, gave the building new life after an elaborate nine-month long restoration.

“The list of repairs was actually pretty short—everything,” says Robert Uricchio of the building, which stood vacant for approximately six years prior.

But rather than focus on what the building didn’t have—namely, sections of the roof, windows and plumbing—the Uricchios focused instead on what it did have: Detailed and original woodwork, a log-burning fireplace, a landscape mural in the library and a great location overlooking a scenic valley. Those “haves” turned into the framework of the renovation plan for the building’s interior.

“It would have been easy to throw in drop ceilings or other elements that don’t really fit, but we wanted to stay faithful to the building’s original integrity,” Robert says.

The Uricchios completed much of the renovation to the 4,000 square-foot space with their own hands but also enlisted the help of a group of tradesmen for the plumbing, wiring and detailed woodwork, which is showcased in every one of the nine dining rooms in addition to the lounge and bar. Jeff Kramer, of Kramer Kustom in the South Side, was “instrumental in bringing a lot of the interior woodwork to life” and taught the brothers how to care for its unique details in addition to the bar's elaborate varnished pine.

Seeking to combine rustic elements like wood casings around exposed brick, wide-plank flooring and leather seating with a sense of lush sophistication, Robert and Michael turned to sister Marylynn Uricchio for her décor expertise. Focusing on a modern-English country theme, she introduced a warm, inviting color palette primarily of red, caramel and yellow in addition to simple furnishings, such as delicate silk window treatments and crisp white tablecloths. Each room also boasts unique period pieces, such as framed Audobon bird prints, antique mirrors and original artwork.

But the true gems of the restoration—in fact, all eight of them—are the private, themed dining rooms located on the second floor that seat between four and 28. The most popular is Starry Night, where the walls and ceiling are painted to resemble Van Gogh's masterpiece.

From top to bottom, all of the building's interior and exterior design elements combine with a skilled kitchen and well-executed American menu to create a destination that encapsulates dining as an overall experience.

“From the time people pull up to when they enter the restaurant, we want to set the tone for a relaxed dining experience,” Robert says. “It’s extremely important and something we’re strong believers in.” —Kaitlyn Johnston

Co-owners Robert and Michael Uricchio
Head Chef Lia Davidson-Welling
599 Dorseyville Road, Indiana Township
412/967-1900
crosskeysinnpgh.com

AMERICAN/ECLECTIC

Pangea

Flavors from every corner of the globe find their way onto the menu at this upscale, lower-level restaurant just off bustling Walnut Street. Shifting his focus from the “tapas flights,” which characterized the menu previously, chef Ronald DeLuca has beefed up the restaurant’s appetizer offerings while continuing to thoughtfully source great ingredients and change the menu weekly.

We loved stopping in for a starter of gorgonzola-and-chive hummus followed up by a dish of Maple Leaf Farms duck au poivre with clementine reduction and mushroom risotto with shaved truffles. Sip something from the appealing international wine list while you relax in one of two small dining rooms—we’re partial to tables in the recently expanded bar and lounge, with its warm lighting and earthy color palette.

Executive Chef/Owner Ronald A. DeLuca Jr.
736 Bellfonte St., Shadyside
412/621-3152
pangea-shadyside.com
$$$-$$$$

ITALIAN

piccolo forno *

At this casual, family-owned neighborhood restaurant, signature crispy-thin crusts provide the foundation for traditional wood-fired pizzas. We loved the speck e mascarpone, with paper-thin slices of cured ham playing off fresh mozzarella and creamy mascarpone and the quattro formaggi with an addictively creamy blend of fresh mozzarella, gorgonzola, crotonese and ricotta cheeses.

The heartier main courses include winning lasagna from the Branduzzi family recipe box; homemade soups, salads and panini fill out the menu. Dessert brings house-made tiramisù or gelato imported from Italy, in addition to other choices.

The simple, open dining room has rustic-brick and burnt-orange walls, marble-topped tables, a pizza oven at the center and usually a big and lively crowd. It’s a rare night when you can waltz in and sit down without a wait.

Chef Domenic Branduzzi
3801 Butler St., Lawrenceville
412/622-0111
piccolo-forno.com
$ (BYOB)

PAN-ASIAN

plum pan asian kitchen *

We can’t get enough of the fresh offerings from Plum’s sushi bar, where the knife-wielding chefs make quick work of glistening slabs of fish, serving up more than 15 delicious specialty rolls, as well as sashimi. The other offerings from the large menu take inspiration from all over Asia, and winners include everything from a hot Japanese-style appetizer of sampan calamari or addictive roti canai (Indian-style flatbread with curry dipping sauce) to a main course of Thai-style spicy duck.

Pastry chef William Schwerin, formerly of Richard Chen, creates wonderful desserts, such as a sundae with malted peanut-butter ice cream, chocolate sauce and salted candied peanuts. The upscale, creative cocktail menu changes seasonally although a few standbys, including the Plum Crazy, a lychee martini made with plum vodka, are always on offer. This summer will bring the introduction of an all-new happy hour.

Owner George Lee
5996 Penn Circle South, East Liberty
412/363-7586
plumpanasiankitchen.com
$$

LATIN

Seviche

Got mojitos and inventive tapas on your mind? Pull up a seat at this bright, casual downtown hot spot for cocktails and small plates; the Nuevo Latino menu is split between seviche bar offerings and cooked tapas.

We loved the ahi tuna sliders served with wasabi mayo on plump little rolls and the savory pulled-chicken tostadas. The menu’s traditional seviche choice—fresh lime, jalapeño pepper, scallion, red onion and cilantro, served with homemade tortilla chips—with any of the seafood choices is another favorite. Later this year watch for a new “mid-plate” menu category, with plates that are larger than tapas but smaller than full entrees, and be sure to check out the festive happy hour.

Executive Chef and Owner Yves Carreau
930 Penn Ave., downtown
412/697-3120
seviche.com
$ (for tapas/small plates)

PAN-ASIAN

Soba

You’ll find white-tablecloth dining backed by a sleek two-story waterfall at this upscale pan-Asian restaurant. The diverse main courses include such options as crispy bronzini with lemongrass-coconut sauce or red-hot red curry, but we especially love dining on small plates at the clubby downstairs bar. Cozy up on leather couches, order a unique cocktail—like the mugi-oh martini, a blend of imported Japanese vodka, cucumber puree, lemon juice and simple syrup—and share dishes like Blue Bay mussels, Thai corn chowder and crispy tofu.

For dessert, look for classic confections infused with traditional Asian flavors, such as the banana split served with huckleberry, jasmine and black-rice ice creams. An added bonus: The second-story outdoor deck is a real treat during the summer.

Executive Chef Danielle Cain
5847 Ellsworth Ave., Shadyside
412/362-5656
bigburrito.com/soba
$$-$$$

ASIAN/LATIN

Tamari *

The winner of this year’s award for “Best New Restaurant” opened last summer, the brainchild of owner and Pittsburgh native Allen Chen and executive chef Roger Li. The creative menu includes sushi, choices from the robata grill and such entrées as beef tenderloin with pickled ginger-cauliflower puree. But what we can’t get enough of are the small plates, from the phyllo-wrapped tiger shrimp with coconut-saffron sauce and cilantro vinaigrette to the Peking duck quesadilla and the chipotle tuna tartare with yuzu crème fraîche.

The two-floor restaurant is hopping; the great cocktail menu is a plus, and there’s an option for fun bar seats directly in front of the lively open kitchen. As it says on the top of the restaurant’s menu, the word “tamari” describes people who “do everything with passion”—and this new spot is true to its name.

Executive Chef Roger Li
3519 Butler St., Lawrenceville
412/325-3435
tamaripgh.com
$$

AMERICAN

toast! kitchen & wine bar

This fun restaurant won our “Best New Restaurant” and “Rising Star Chef” awards last year. The menu of small and large plates changes daily (the few dishes that do stay on, like the addictive shrimp and grits or sweet onion bisque are not to be missed). Working with local purveyors—including a small, local farm that raises produce exclusively for the restaurant—ensures that everything is as fresh and seasonal as possible.

We loved dishes such as a small plate of rich, fatty lamb ribs; spinach salad with fried egg; roasted tile fish or the juicy, roasted Amish farm chicken. To finish, try the smooth and satisfying chocolate pot de crème.

Seating areas include a cozy bar downstairs with banquettes and three intimate upstairs white-tablecloth dining rooms. The wine list, with about 180 bottle selections and 50 wines by the glass (at least six are bubbly), won its first Wine Spectator award last year; informed—yet friendly—advice on pairing is always at hand.

Co-owners Paul Tebbets and Chef Chet Garland
5102 Baum Blvd., Shadyside
412/224-2579
toastkitchen-winebar.com
$$

THAI/ECLECTIC

Typhoon

Classic noodles and curries as well as inventive “new Thai” cuisine are the specialty at this stylish restaurant. Last year, the arrival of chef Michael Olshansky brought an infusion of Japanese and Korean dishes to the menu as well.

We love dishes including the miniature spicy raw-tuna tacos even more because it’s easy to find a good wine pairing to go with them—the interesting, well-priced wine list of about 40 bottles and more than 20 wines by the glass highlights varietals that match the menu’s eclectic flavors. Playing to this strength, the restaurant has recently introduced new, monthly multicourse wine dinners and informal tastings. The bright, inviting dining room has sleek banquettes, bamboo and a bar that specializes in cocktails made with Asian ingredients.

Chef Michael “Buzz” Olshansky
242 S. Highland Ave., Shadyside
412/362-2005
typhoonpgh.com
$$

JAPANESE

Umi

Food is art at Umi, and the artist is chef Mr. Shu, who swiftly and expertly wields his knives to create world-class sushi, sashimi and other elements of Japanese cuisine, including miso soup and tempura.

In the cozy, softly lit, earth-toned dining room, choose between traditional tatami seating or pull up to the five-person sushi bar for an up-close view of chef Shu at work. Pick and choose your own maki, sushi and sashimi, or opt for an entree that showcases the delicate flavors and textures of seafood, such as the yellowtail sashimi with spicy yuzu jalapeño sauce.

Our favorite order is the omakase menu (which loosely means “trust the chef”), a unique multicourse meal that chef Shu prepares showcasing the best ingredients available that evening.

Executive Chef Mr. Shu
5849 Ellsworth Ave., Shadyside
412/362-6198
bigburrito.com/umi
$$-$$$ (omakase menu starts at $75/person)

ITALIAN

Vivo

We love this family-owned restaurant north of downtown in Bellevue because it feels like something you’d stumble across on a side street in a small Italian town. The short menu is told orally; the setting is eclectic and cozy but unpretentious, and the chef will most likely visit your table and talk with you about your food.

Dinner (served Wednesday through Saturday only) is prix fixe and includes an appetizer, pasta, entree, salad and dessert. You’ll find great flavor in every detail, from the basic red sauce to the house-made vinaigrette on a salad of local greens; we love going for the Italian classics such as osso bucco or, for dessert, panna cotta.

Chef and Owner Sabatino “Sam” DiBattista
565 Lincoln Ave., Bellevue
412/761-9500
$$$-$$$$ (BYOB)

MEDITERRANEAN

wild rosemary

Opened in 2008 by three friends, this cozy 28-seat bistro takes a creative approach by offering only main courses on the brief menu. Meals kick off with a complimentary appetizer such as savory house-made flatbread with goat-cheese soufflé and marinated olives.

Then you’ll choose from about seven to nine entree selections, which change every two weeks, and include side dishes (prices reflect this): Grilled pork tenderloin is served with onion-thyme soufflé, asparagus, shallot sauce and arugula, for example, while seared scallops come with pasta dressed in crushed, roasted sweet peppers and mascarpone. The house-made desserts change bimonthly and may include decadent cheesecake or génoise with sherried berries.

Decorated in a charmingly eclectic style, the interior is as warm and inviting as the casual, friendly service.

Chef Gloria Fortunato
1469 Bower Hill Road, Upper St. Clair
412/221-1232
wildrosemary.com
$$$-$$$$ (BYOB)

legends

What makes a restaurant a legend? It has something to do with three words that begin with the letter "C": character, consistency and comfort. These establishments distinguish themselves with outstanding food, a refined sense of who they are and distinctive decor. What's more, they deliver that experience time after time, year after year. We are pleased to list some of the region's most legendary restaurants, chosen by the Restaurant Review Panel.

Celebrating its 40th anniversary in downtown Pittsburgh is (The) Common Plea Restaurant. Owner John Barsotti sets the tone of gracious hospitality that is conveyed by the entire staff. Don’t forget to try out the award-winning (and visually stunning) Steelertini, garnished with black and gold licorice.

It’s hard to believe that the cozy neighborhood trattoria Girasole is only 10 years old since it feels as if it has always been a part of the ambience and character of Shadyside. It’s what I would call Italian comfort food, and that never goes out of style.

As always, the pasta and veal dishes on the menu are the standouts, but the authentic food is only part of the charm at Gran Canal Caffe, located in Sharpsburg. Here you also get the passion and warmth of the owners and chefs, Michele and Antoinette Bonaventura, as well. I hope they never take the cannelloni off the menu.

The Grand Concourse at Station Square is not only a legend of fine dining in this region, it’s also a historic landmark. Walk through the doors into what must have been one of the grandest railways stations in America, dine like a steel baron and don’t miss the spectacular river-level view of downtown from the River Room. Sunday brunch remains one of the most extravagant in western Pennsylvania.

Ah, romance! It’s in every corner of the magical Hyeholde Restaurant, and the genius of executive chef Chris O’Brien’s cuisine only adds to the special moments you’ll enjoy here in Moon Township. His commitment to quality and locally sourced ingredients earned him the Governor’s Award for Culinary Excellence last year. New features are always being added—including a chef’s table, Hye Tea and even cooking classes.

Tucked away in Station Square, Kiku Japanese Restaurant is an oasis of tranquility, a far cry from the raucous restaurants with flying knives and acrobatic chefs. It is a place where you’ll be pampered and can savor the delicate and distinctive flavors of authentic Japanese cuisine.

Sometimes dinner is all about a unique food experience, and sometimes it’s all about going someplace where they make you feel special. At LeMont, it’s always about both. Enjoy some of their fabulous specials during the 50th-anniversary celebration at this Mount Washington landmark.

A simple food philosophy has been the hallmark of the legendary Monterey Bay Fish Grotto ever since its inception as the Rodi Grille House almost 20 years ago: the finest and freshest seafood, expertly prepared. The daily roster at this scenic spot with locations atop Mount Washington and in Monroeville always includes 10 to 20 varieties of fish from all over the world.

Of course you wouldn’t want to eat here every day, but when the urge comes over you, there is no denying a trip to Primanti Brothers in the Strip. With cole slaw and french fries piled high, there is just nothing like its Pitts-Burgher Cheese Steak, the No. 2 bestseller. And let’s face it, you’re not going to make one of these for yourself at home!

With the advent of cell-phone cameras, I’ll bet there are thousands of pictures of the food at Sushi Kim, located on Penn Avenue in the Strip District, circulating through cyberspace. Here, artistry meets authenticity with an extensive menu of Korean and Japanese entrees as well as the incredible array of sushi.

If you’re walking around Bloomfield within a few blocks of Tessaro's, you can’t avoid the tantalizing aroma of fresh beef searing to perfection on a wood grill. Tessaro’s should get an award just for improving the air quality of the region. But even if beef is not your thing, you can always stop by for the friendly atmosphere and some of the fabulous home fries.

Award-winning The Carlton downtown is where the grown-ups go for lunch and dinner. It’s not just the sophisticated menu and extensive wine list. It’s also that sense of being treated as an adult with the finest-quality food and professional service. No games and no gimmicks.

You don’t usually think of college bars as places to go for the food. But Union Grill, an Oakland watering hole on the edge of the Carnegie Mellon University and University of Pittsburgh campuses, serves imaginative and plentiful soups, salads and burgers that turn tavern staples into memorable meals.

It’s just a 30-minute ride from downtown to the romantic Wooden Angel in Beaver. Celebrate a special occasion, or treat yourself to a memorable meal. Chef Mike Frashure’s thin-crust skillet breads are amazing—especially if there’s one with roasted apples, figs, blue cheese and molasses on the menu.
—Chris Fennimore