The Hot Dog Place Under the Bridge in Brownsville

Fiddle’s Confectionery gets set for a centennial.



So I was up the Mon a few days ago, doing some research for my upcoming documentary about river towns in Western Pennsylvania, when somebody in the town of California mentioned the hot-dog place under the old bridge in Brownsville. Having lunched there myself, oh, about 20 years ago, I asked, “Is Fiddle’s still open?” and that somebody said, “Of course.” I made a mental note to stop for a dog sometime, as I’m always happy to get reacquainted with a vintage wiener-y. “Sometime” became that afternoon, when I wandered into the place around 2 p.m., ordered a Mike’s Chili & Slaw Dog with Fiddle Chips, and struck up a conversation with Mike himself, a healthy-looking young man behind the counter who grills skinless wieners and buns and who casually mentions that the business is going to be 100 years old next year. I say, “Wow,” and Mike calmly says, “Yeah, if we make it.”

You see, times are tough everywhere, but especially in Brownsville, large parts of which are all boarded up, resembling an early-20th-century ghost town. But people are rooting for the revitalization of this historic river town, and Fiddle’s has long been the sort of unpretentious, important and delicious gathering place that only a hot-dog joint can be. And a 100-year-old hot doggery is a rare landmark.

Now, there are two bridges over the Monongahela at Brownsville. Head for the old truss bridge, and circle underneath to 101 Water St., where the bridge deck serves as a giant awning for Fiddle’s. You can’t miss the checkerboard floor, the classic low stools at the long counter and—Ah!—the wooden booths (all carved with decades of love and lovers’ names) and classy black-slate tables from the 1920s. On weekdays at lunchtime there are specials. Amazingly fragrant roast pork and sauerkraut with mashed potatoes were served the Thursday I went back to find some history.

It turns out that the business began in 1920 as the Empire Confectionery with penny candy and whatnot, founded by a Syrian immigrant named George Ellien. His young nephew Fadell Hallal bought the business in 1918, and folks in town gave young Fadell the nickname “Fiddle,” and he capitalized on it. In addition to confections, he sold top-quality hot dogs from Pittsburgh’s legendary Fried & Reineman Meats on perfectly steamed buns, and lots of people came from far and near (including from the local high school when kids were allowed to leave for lunch) to grab a few with mustard and onions. After World War II, Fadell made his brother-in-law John Mitchell a partner, and John continued the great hot-dog traditions even after Fadell died in 1979, up until 1990, when John sold the business to a local couple, Michael and Beverly Novotny. Now it’s their son Mike who served me that recent slaw & chili dog that made me fall in love with Fiddle’s all over again.

And I said, “I’ll try to tell people about this place and encourage them to make a trip, a perfect springtime excursion, to celebrate 99 years,” and that’s what I’m starting to do right now: I’m telling you, if you love the quirky charms and amazing family businesses that sometimes survive in Western Pennsylvania, you have to get yourself to Fiddle’s, at least to sample the tasty and carefully prepared dogs. Although, there’s a hearty breakfast menu too if you’re hungry for eggs and all. Spend some money in Brownsville. Let’s help Mike make it to 100.

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit Module

Edit ModuleShow Tags

Hot Reads

Top 10 Things to Do in Pittsburgh in January

Top 10 Things to Do in Pittsburgh in January

This month's best bets in the ’Burgh.
2016 Pittsburghers of the Year: The Pittsburgh Penguins

2016 Pittsburghers of the Year: The Pittsburgh Penguins

The Pittsburgh Penguins' hoisting of Lord Stanley’s Cup in June year speaks to the ability of the team and the organization to persevere, to dig deep when things looked bleak, and to roll up their sleeves and go to work when tough jobs had to be done — traits Pittsburghers have always appreciated.
The Big Guy with the Big Voice

The Big Guy with the Big Voice

After joining the Penguins in mid-season, head coach Mike Sullivan instills the focus needed to win the Stanley Cup.
The TV Series ‘Outsiders’ Finds a Home in Millvale

The TV Series ‘Outsiders’ Finds a Home in Millvale

Go behind the scenes to meet set and production designers and artisans who work magic, transforming neighborhoods into rural Kentucky.
Edit ModuleShow Tags

The 412

Watch: Preview of Fascinating Rachel Carson Documentary

Watch: Preview of Fascinating Rachel Carson Documentary

Carson, a native of Springdale, is credited with launching the modern environmental movement. She is the subject of a new “American Experience” documentary airing Jan. 24 on PBS.
Joe Manganiello Knocks off Superman, Batman is Next

Joe Manganiello Knocks off Superman, Batman is Next

The Mt. Lebanon native and insanely loyal Pittsburgh Steelers fan is engaging in superhero trash talk with one of his movie co-stars.
Pipe Dream? Get From Pittsburgh to Chicago in 30 Minutes

Pipe Dream? Get From Pittsburgh to Chicago in 30 Minutes

Developers say such a trip, at speeds faster than a passenger jet, could be possible in five years.
Pittsburgh Pride Expands Events, Adds First-Ever Zip Line

Pittsburgh Pride Expands Events, Adds First-Ever Zip Line

The summer celebration of the region’s gay, bisexual and transgender community, already the fourth largest special event in Pittsburgh, will be even bigger in 2017.
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

Hot Reads

Top 10 Things to Do in Pittsburgh in January

Top 10 Things to Do in Pittsburgh in January

This month's best bets in the ’Burgh.
2016 Pittsburghers of the Year: The Pittsburgh Penguins

2016 Pittsburghers of the Year: The Pittsburgh Penguins

The Pittsburgh Penguins' hoisting of Lord Stanley’s Cup in June year speaks to the ability of the team and the organization to persevere, to dig deep when things looked bleak, and to roll up their sleeves and go to work when tough jobs had to be done — traits Pittsburghers have always appreciated.
The Big Guy with the Big Voice

The Big Guy with the Big Voice

After joining the Penguins in mid-season, head coach Mike Sullivan instills the focus needed to win the Stanley Cup.
The TV Series ‘Outsiders’ Finds a Home in Millvale

The TV Series ‘Outsiders’ Finds a Home in Millvale

Go behind the scenes to meet set and production designers and artisans who work magic, transforming neighborhoods into rural Kentucky.
Restaurant Review: Spoon in East Liberty Gets a Fresh Polish

Restaurant Review: Spoon in East Liberty Gets a Fresh Polish

Hiring Jamilka Borges as executive chef and a fresh interior design revive the East Liberty restaurant.
Talk of the Tahn: The Gift I Was Given

Talk of the Tahn: The Gift I Was Given

My brother taught me how to ski on rented metal sticks. Boyce Park. It was the first thing we ever did together besides fight over the last slice of pizza.
Edit Module
Edit Module

Edit ModuleShow Tags

On the Blogs


Watch: Preview of Fascinating Rachel Carson Documentary

Watch: Preview of Fascinating Rachel Carson Documentary

Carson, a native of Springdale, is credited with launching the modern environmental movement. She is the subject of a new “American Experience” documentary airing Jan. 24 on PBS.

Comments


All the foodie news that's fit to blog
G&G Noodle Bar Downtown Will Close

G&G Noodle Bar Downtown Will Close

Its shuttering is the first significant Pittsburgh restaurant closing of 2017.

Comments


Not just good stuff. Great stuff.
The Best 6 Places to Get a Cup of Tea in Pittsburgh

The Best 6 Places to Get a Cup of Tea in Pittsburgh

The quiet rise of Pittsburgh's tea scene gives us a few favorite gems.

Comments


Popularity of The Flats on Carson is a Mystery

Popularity of The Flats on Carson is a Mystery

After Dark visits the South Side bar which attracts big crowds on the weekend — and, on Sunday, was the scene of a well-publicized arrest.

Comments


Mike Prisuta's Sports Section

A weekly look at the games people are playing and the people who are playing them.
You Can Hope, but Don't Expect an Easy Steelers' Win in KC

You Can Hope, but Don't Expect an Easy Steelers' Win in KC

Pittsburgh blasted Miami because the Steelers performed as expected against an opponent that was depleted by injury and overwhelmed by its circumstances. But that isn’t likely to happen again.

Comments


Style. Design. Goods. Hide your credit card.
Tantalizing Textiles for the Table

Tantalizing Textiles for the Table

Check out the chic decor from Pittsburgh-based artist and designer Janice Nelson.

Comments


The movies that are playing in Pittsburgh –– and, more importantly, whether or not they're worth your time.
Scorsese's Silence Proves Worth the Wait (and the Weight)

Scorsese's Silence Proves Worth the Wait (and the Weight)

Reviews of "Silence," "Live by Night" and "Patriot's Day."

Comments


Everything you need to know about getting married in Pittsburgh today.
Pittsburgh Romance: How Their Love Survived Long-Distance

Pittsburgh Romance: How Their Love Survived Long-Distance

From coast to coast and continent to continent, these couples showed that absence really does make the heart grow fonder.

Comments


Weekly inspiration for your home from the editors of Pittsburgh Magazine
Urban Fit Co. Opening Flagship Shop in Sewickley

Urban Fit Co. Opening Flagship Shop in Sewickley

The locally owned active wear boutique is slated to open in March. Plus, get all the details on Pittsburgh’s new luxury residential real estate firm, Piatt Sotheby’s International Realty.

Comments


The hottest topics in higher education
Pittsburgh Artist’s Work to be Featured at Thiel College

Pittsburgh Artist’s Work to be Featured at Thiel College

Benedict Oddi’s collection “Scouts and Nomads” will be on display in a campus gallery.

Comments