The Hot Dog Place Under the Bridge in Brownsville

Fiddle’s Confectionery gets set for a centennial.



So I was up the Mon a few days ago, doing some research for my upcoming documentary about river towns in Western Pennsylvania, when somebody in the town of California mentioned the hot-dog place under the old bridge in Brownsville. Having lunched there myself, oh, about 20 years ago, I asked, “Is Fiddle’s still open?” and that somebody said, “Of course.” I made a mental note to stop for a dog sometime, as I’m always happy to get reacquainted with a vintage wiener-y. “Sometime” became that afternoon, when I wandered into the place around 2 p.m., ordered a Mike’s Chili & Slaw Dog with Fiddle Chips, and struck up a conversation with Mike himself, a healthy-looking young man behind the counter who grills skinless wieners and buns and who casually mentions that the business is going to be 100 years old next year. I say, “Wow,” and Mike calmly says, “Yeah, if we make it.”

You see, times are tough everywhere, but especially in Brownsville, large parts of which are all boarded up, resembling an early-20th-century ghost town. But people are rooting for the revitalization of this historic river town, and Fiddle’s has long been the sort of unpretentious, important and delicious gathering place that only a hot-dog joint can be. And a 100-year-old hot doggery is a rare landmark.

Now, there are two bridges over the Monongahela at Brownsville. Head for the old truss bridge, and circle underneath to 101 Water St., where the bridge deck serves as a giant awning for Fiddle’s. You can’t miss the checkerboard floor, the classic low stools at the long counter and—Ah!—the wooden booths (all carved with decades of love and lovers’ names) and classy black-slate tables from the 1920s. On weekdays at lunchtime there are specials. Amazingly fragrant roast pork and sauerkraut with mashed potatoes were served the Thursday I went back to find some history.

It turns out that the business began in 1920 as the Empire Confectionery with penny candy and whatnot, founded by a Syrian immigrant named George Ellien. His young nephew Fadell Hallal bought the business in 1918, and folks in town gave young Fadell the nickname “Fiddle,” and he capitalized on it. In addition to confections, he sold top-quality hot dogs from Pittsburgh’s legendary Fried & Reineman Meats on perfectly steamed buns, and lots of people came from far and near (including from the local high school when kids were allowed to leave for lunch) to grab a few with mustard and onions. After World War II, Fadell made his brother-in-law John Mitchell a partner, and John continued the great hot-dog traditions even after Fadell died in 1979, up until 1990, when John sold the business to a local couple, Michael and Beverly Novotny. Now it’s their son Mike who served me that recent slaw & chili dog that made me fall in love with Fiddle’s all over again.

And I said, “I’ll try to tell people about this place and encourage them to make a trip, a perfect springtime excursion, to celebrate 99 years,” and that’s what I’m starting to do right now: I’m telling you, if you love the quirky charms and amazing family businesses that sometimes survive in Western Pennsylvania, you have to get yourself to Fiddle’s, at least to sample the tasty and carefully prepared dogs. Although, there’s a hearty breakfast menu too if you’re hungry for eggs and all. Spend some money in Brownsville. Let’s help Mike make it to 100.

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit Module

Edit ModuleShow Tags

Hot Reads

Best Restaurants 2017

Best Restaurants 2017

This year Pittsburgh Magazine's independent Restaurant Review Panel recognizes 34 establishments as our regions's top restaurants. Our list includes All Arounders, Killer Casual, Fancy Night Out, Best Budget and Classic Comfort establishments.
Pittsburgh Chef of the Year: Bill Fuller

Pittsburgh Chef of the Year: Bill Fuller

Bill Fuller’s portfolio includes overseeing five specialty restaurants — Eleven Contemporary Kitchen, Casbah Mediterranean Kitchen and Wine Bar, Soba, umi and Kaya — as well as 14 fast-casual Mad Mex restaurants and a full-service catering operation. Even in an increasingly competitive environment, his restaurants remain in-demand and relevant.
Pittsburgh's Best New Restaurant: Apteka

Pittsburgh's Best New Restaurant: Apteka

Apteka, operated by Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski, is a vegan eatery that draws on Lasky’s sixth-generation Pittsburgh roots and Skowronski’s Polish heritage.
Can the Restoration of a Church Lead to the Revival of a Town?

Can the Restoration of a Church Lead to the Revival of a Town?

A small group of dedicated residents sees the restoration of their church in Tarentum as a window to the potential rebirth of their once-booming community in suburban Pittsburgh.
Edit ModuleShow Tags

The 412

Creative Nonfiction Writers’ Conference Helps Writers Tell Their Stories

Creative Nonfiction Writers’ Conference Helps Writers Tell Their Stories

The fifth annual Creative Nonfiction Writers’ Conference brings writers from across the country together to improve their craft.
Watch: Radio-Synced Highlights of Pens 7-0 Win in Game 5

Watch: Radio-Synced Highlights of Pens 7-0 Win in Game 5

Nothing beats listening to Mike Lange describe a Penguins' goal.
Break It Down: Byham Theater

Break It Down: Byham Theater

When you walk into the Sixth Street entryway of the Byham Theater, Downtown, you will see patches of green and black tile on the walls: These are originals from the early 20th century, says John Mumper, facilities manager at the Byham. The grand theater has plenty of history to go with its 100-plus years; let’s break it down.
 Wiz Khalifa to Headline Thrival 2017

Wiz Khalifa to Headline Thrival 2017

It’s the first time a Pittsburgh artist is headlining the annual innovation and music festival.
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

Hot Reads

Best Restaurants 2017

Best Restaurants 2017

This year Pittsburgh Magazine's independent Restaurant Review Panel recognizes 34 establishments as our regions's top restaurants. Our list includes All Arounders, Killer Casual, Fancy Night Out, Best Budget and Classic Comfort establishments.
Pittsburgh Chef of the Year: Bill Fuller

Pittsburgh Chef of the Year: Bill Fuller

Bill Fuller’s portfolio includes overseeing five specialty restaurants — Eleven Contemporary Kitchen, Casbah Mediterranean Kitchen and Wine Bar, Soba, umi and Kaya — as well as 14 fast-casual Mad Mex restaurants and a full-service catering operation. Even in an increasingly competitive environment, his restaurants remain in-demand and relevant.
Pittsburgh's Best New Restaurant: Apteka

Pittsburgh's Best New Restaurant: Apteka

Apteka, operated by Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski, is a vegan eatery that draws on Lasky’s sixth-generation Pittsburgh roots and Skowronski’s Polish heritage.
Can the Restoration of a Church Lead to the Revival of a Town?

Can the Restoration of a Church Lead to the Revival of a Town?

A small group of dedicated residents sees the restoration of their church in Tarentum as a window to the potential rebirth of their once-booming community in suburban Pittsburgh.
Remembering Henry Hillman

Remembering Henry Hillman

Reflecting on the impact of the businessman, civic visionary and philanthropist.
How David Freese is Helping to Keep Pirates' on Course

How David Freese is Helping to Keep Pirates' on Course

The Pirates’ infielder emerges as a team leader — and an offensive powerhouse.
Edit Module
Edit Module

Edit ModuleShow Tags

On the Blogs


Creative Nonfiction Writers’ Conference Helps Writers Tell Their Stories

Creative Nonfiction Writers’ Conference Helps Writers Tell Their Stories

The fifth annual Creative Nonfiction Writers’ Conference brings writers from across the country together to improve their craft.

Comments


All the foodie news that's fit to blog
Station's Hours Expand and Le Lyonnais Opens Downtown

Station's Hours Expand and Le Lyonnais Opens Downtown

Station, the excellent Bloomfield eatery, now offers lunch service. The Big Y Group opens a French bistro in the space previously occupied by Sonoma Grille.

Comments


Not just good stuff. Great stuff.
Five Inexpensive But Memorable Date Spots in Pittsburgh

Five Inexpensive But Memorable Date Spots in Pittsburgh

These spots are tailored for couples who are looking for a simple, chill night out on Valentine’s Day (or any other day). If your significant other isn’t the type to be wooed by expensive wines and chocolates, this is the list for you.

Comments


Vital Happy Hour Alert: Great Cocktails at the Wigle Tasting Room

Vital Happy Hour Alert: Great Cocktails at the Wigle Tasting Room

The third outpost of local distillery Wigle, found in the Omni William Penn Hotel, is an instant destination for cocktail fans.

Comments


Mike Prisuta's Sports Section

A weekly look at the games people are playing and the people who are playing them.
Time Running Out for Penguins to Respond to Senators

Time Running Out for Penguins to Respond to Senators

The Penguins suddenly have a lot to sort out as they attempt to respond to another disappointing playoff loss.

Comments


Style. Design. Goods. Hide your credit card.
Pittsburgh on a Plate

Pittsburgh on a Plate

The way to a beer lover’s heart is mapped out on notNeutral’s plate, which highlights Pittsburgh breweries (and other points of interest) across the city.

Comments


The movies that are playing in Pittsburgh –– and, more importantly, whether or not they're worth your time.
The Alien Series Jumps the Shark with Covenant

The Alien Series Jumps the Shark with Covenant

Reviews of "Alien: Covenant" and "Everything, Everything," as well as local movie news and notes.

Comments


Everything you need to know about getting married in Pittsburgh today.
Disney Touches: Two Couples Take on the Fairy Tale Wedding

Disney Touches: Two Couples Take on the Fairy Tale Wedding

See how these couples brought a little Disney magic into their wedding festivities

Comments


Weekly inspiration for your home from the editors of Pittsburgh Magazine
Get to the North Side for Home & Garden Tour, Epic Yard Sale

Get to the North Side for Home & Garden Tour, Epic Yard Sale

Explore lavish homes and gardens with the West Allegheny Historic District’s annual Tour and Tasting, or go on the hunt for hidden treasure during The Great Mexican War Streets Yard Sale.

Comments


The hottest topics in higher education
Explore Your Future with Point Park University

Explore Your Future with Point Park University

The university will host three summer workshops for high school students from July 17-20.

Comments